San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Tacos Sincero
My favorite comic book artists are the ones with distinct styles and extremely detailed illustrations — artists like Frank Quitely, Katsuhiro Otomo and Jean “Moebius” Giraud. I think Sincere Justice, founder of Oakland pop-up Tacos Sincero, was one of those artists in another lifetime, except his canvas is the tortilla. Justice’s pop-up specializes in the many forms of a tortilla, but lately he’s focused on tostadas. The options range from fresh to saucy and even traditional, each pulling from a different culture and its cuisine. The egg salad tostada ($10) takes some inspiration from Japanese konbinis (convenience stores) but slips in newness like salt-bomb capers, fragrant preserved lemons, calamansi kosho and ginger. It might seem like the last thing you’d expect on a tostada, but I grew up eating tuna salad with canned peas and carrots on tostadas, so there are no limits. Inspired by his upbringing in the San Gabriel Valley, the Sriracha tinga tostada ($11) takes the simple stewed chicken and transforms it into a more acidic but still saucy version.
Follow instagram.com/tacossincero for pop-up locations or email tacossincero @gmail.com for more information.