Empire Pizza

There’s good pizza juju at 688 Mission St., last occupied by Pizzeria Delfina and now the home of New York-style slice shop Empire Pizza. A Pizzeria Delfina alum, Brandon Wells, is in charge of the pies, too. These slow-fermented doughs yield super crispy slices topped with flavorful sauces and housemade mozzarella. (No kale, pineapple or guff, the menu admonishes). Don’t miss the “choppin’ broccoli” ($6), a ricotta pie with broccoli rabe and a sprinkling of toasty sesame seeds along the crust — a tribute to a Brooklyn pizzeria known for the unusual addition. Square pies are made from a higher-hydration, oil-rich dough. Try the pepperoni, decorated with a spicy tomato sauce and burnished cups ($7). Add Mike’s hot honey for a hit of spicy sweetness on any slice. The staff use an infrared thermometer to check slices for proper temperature before serving them up on white paper plates. There’s ample indoor and outdoor seating for downtown San Francisco lunch-seekers. — E.K.

11 a.m.-4 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. 688 Mission St., San Francisco. empirepizzasf.com

Elena Kadvany/The Chronicle Pepperoni square pie from New York-style slice shop Empire Pizza in S.F.