CLAMS, CARAMELIZED FENNEL & SOURDOUGH SOUP

Serves 4

Inspired by the clam chowder bread bowl of San Francisco, yet entirely different, this is a soup for the home, not the wharf. Tangy chunks of sourdough are stirred into a brothy white wine and clam base enhanced with garlic and caramelized fennel. Shuck all the clams before serving for extreme ease at the dinner table or just shuck half the clams for a bit of drama.

• 3½ cups bite-size, torn sourdough bread chunks

• 1 cup dry, acidic white wine

• 1½ pounds clams, preferably small, such as Manila or Littlenecks

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 2 medium fennel bulbs, sliced thin against the grain, fronds saved

• 5 garlic cloves, sliced thin

• 2 tablespoons fresh thyme

leaves and stems, chopped

• 2 small bay leaves

• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seeds

• ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, plus more for serving

• ½ teaspoon crushed chile flakes

• Kosher salt, to taste

• 2 cups chicken, vegetable or fish stock

• Lemon wedges, for serving

• Olive oil, for serving

Instructions: Turn your oven on to “warm” or to its lowest heat setting. Place the sourdough on a sheet pan and then in the oven to warm, slightly dry out but not fully toast, about 20 minutes.

Set up a colander or strainer over a large bowl. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the wine over medium and, once simmering, add the clams. Shake the pot to settle them into the wine, cover with a lid and cook, lifting the lid once or twice to stir until the clams pop open, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and gently strain the clams from the cooking wine in the colander with a bowl underneath to catch the liquid.

Place the same pot back over medium-high heat and add the butter. Once it’s bubbling, add the fennel and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally (let the fennel sit and sizzle to caramelize, while also not letting the garlic burn) until golden in parts and tender, but not falling apart, about 7 minutes.

Stir in 1 tablespoon of the thyme, bay leaves, fennel seed, black pepper, chile flakes and season with salt. Stir for a few more minutes longer and then add the stock, reserved wine cooking liquid (which should be about 1½ to 2 cups liquid) and 2 cups of water. Bring to a simmer, taste, season with more salt, if needed and turn off the heat.

At this point, shell all or half of the clams, or none at all.

Add the sourdough chunks to the pot, stir well to combine and soak most of the bread. Add the clams and stir again.

Immediately transfer the soup to serving bowls. Garnish with remaining 1 tablespoon thyme, more black pepper, if desired, fennel fronds, a squeeze of fresh lemon and a drizzle of olive oil.