Lotus leaves: Lo mai gai from Jade Cathay

The lotus is saturated with symbolic and spiritual significance in Hindu and Buddhist cultures, and its roots and leaves are common ingredients in Chinese cuisine. Lo mai gai is a Cantonese classic, a savory morsel of rice wrapped in a lotus leaf and steamed, often served during yum cha — dim sum service with tea. The name literally translates as “sticky rice with chicken” but other fillings are popular, like cured pork.

Lotus leaves are incredibly delicate — shriveling just minutes after harvest — and as they prefer a hot, wet climate, most Bay Area chefs rely solely on dried, imported leaves for their lotus leaf-based dishes.

Mandy Lu and her parents, Kevin and Grace, opened Jade Cathay in San Jose a little more than a decade ago. Before that, her parents had worked in a leather factory in Guangzhou, China. Their restaurant — decked out in sparkly chandeliers and, soon, a full bar — offers a classic take on lo mai gai. Among the towering dim sum steamers in their enormous kitchen, cooks fill each rehydrated lotus leaf with an umami torpedo of sticky rice, cured pork sausage, egg yolk, dried shrimp and mushrooms. After steaming for half an hour, the leaf unfurls to reveal a savory, sticky delight infused with a tea-like flavor and color. 1339 N. First St., San Jose. www.jadecathay.com

Jade Cathay owners Mandy Lu, Kevin Lu and Grace Guan at their San Jose restaurant with towering dim sum steamers in their big kitchen.

Jade Cathay offers a classic take on lo mai gai — a lotus leaf filled with sticky rice, cured pork sausage, egg yolk, dried shrimp and mushrooms.