San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Tacos Osuna
Oakland home taqueria Tacos Osuna amazed me with its indulgent chorreadas and tacos from Mazatlan in the state of Sinaloa. Owner Eduardo Osuna goes to great lengths to bring flavors directly from his hometown, such as importing the cola-like Tonicol or making guava pies. The tacos ($3.50) greatly benefit from grill smoke — carne asada is a given, and definitely worth getting, but the other options like rich tripas and al pastor are just as strong. (The latter isn’t shaved from a spit; instead, Osuna grills adobo-marinated pork steaks over flame.) Try the more contemporary dishes like a torito ($11), a flour tortilla taco with a cheese-stuffed green pepper and choice of meat. If you’re really hungry, indulge in the loaded grilled potato ($18), which comes with tortillas on the side so you can make your own tacos. And while it’s not a taco, you shouldn’t miss the aforementioned chorreada ($10), a showstopping cakey corn disk brushed with lard and topped with cheese and grilled meat.
Check instagram.com/tacos_osuna_estilo_mazatlan for location details.