San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
A vegetarian Thanksgiving
Modern Vegetarian columnist Amisha Gurbani brings Indian flair to the holiday spread
Coming as an immigrant to the United States meant adapting to new holidays and traditions while at the same time preserving my own cultural traditions.
Moving away from my loved ones was not easy, a choice that I made when I was in my 20s. As a student, I first learned about Thanksgiving from my American friends. I was invited to a potluck, where there were the traditional dishes: the mighty turkey, cornbread stuffing, Brussels sprouts, green bean casserole, cranberry relish, sweet potatoes with marshmallows and pumpkin pie. There were also a few nontraditional dishes made by international students.
Being vegetarian, I did not have much to eat. Plus I missed flavorful, well-spiced foods. I had been in this country a mere three months and I went hungry that night. That was my first Thanksgiving experience.
It took me a while to understand this tradition, and what it meant to Americans. As the years went by, celebrating Thanksgiving with Indian immigrant families meant bringing Indian dishes to the potluck. The bird was cooked as is, but there were chicken biryani, vegetable biryani, chaat (Indian street food) as sides, cheese boards, and Indian-spiced Brussels sprouts and carrots. A friend even made turkey tikkis (Indianstyle turkey patties) one year to include the bird for the holiday.
Thanksgiving has evolved over the years to include Friendsgiving before or around the official holiday. The table is adorned with the traditional holiday dishes, or with whatever the host desires on their table. One year, I went all out and hosted Friendsgiving at my humble abode. All my girlfriends had to come formally dressed with their best smiles. I made an international Thanksgiving feast with dishes from Italy, India and Mexico, and dessert from America. All the different cultural experiences made Friendsgiving a feast to remember.
Some years, Thanksgiving was celebrated with our family of four. I’d go all out and cook a vegetarian extravaganza, such as butternut squash ravioli with a mushroom sauce, along with vegetarian sides, and dessert would be a chai masala apple pie with caramel and vanilla ice cream — a fine ending to a luxurious meal.
The vegetarian menu that I have come up with this year includes many of my favorite Indian spices and the exquisite fall bounty. The season’s produce has more toned down colors — rustic oranges and yellows, blush reds and browns and darker greens. I generally shop for Indian spices at my local Indian store, or they are readily available online.
I start off with a Pear Chutney, infused with Indian spices and toasted fennel seeds. The sweet, tangy and flavorful chutney completes a cheese board. Paired with a soft cheese like Brie on lavash crackers, it forms the perfect bite. Little nibbles over a glass of red wine is a wonderful way to kick off a comforting Thanksgiving meal. The chutney can be made a day to a week ahead.
My sides include a Red Salad with a Sumac & Red Chile Vinaigrette and Tandoori Brussels Sprouts. The Red Salad evokes fall emotions with its maroonish, red vibes — think shades of fall leaves. Bitter radicchio and peppery red cabbage are complemented by spicy red onions; sweet, tart apples; pomegranate arils and toasted pine nuts along with shaved Parmesan, which lends an umami flavor to the salad. Dressed with a vinaigrette, with lemony sumac and bold Kashmiri red chile, it wakes up the palate. The vinaigrette can be made a day to a week ahead.
The Tandoori Brussels Sprouts are coated in a homemade tandoori masala. The tandoori masala is my easier take on the traditional, with ground spices and a few whole spices that are roasted and then ground. The sprouts, once roasted in the oven, are dressed with toasted walnuts and pomegranate arils for a nutty and sweet flavor and texture; a bit of tangy chaat masala, spicy onions and a squeeze of lime complete the dish.
The star of the table is Delicata Squash Stuffed With Paneer Wild Rice Pulao. Pulao is a simple one-pot rice dish made with aromatics like onions, garlic and ginger; whole spices like cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf and cardamom; and vegetables like carrots and peas. The protein is paneer, and it can be substituted with tofu for a vegan main. The entire dish is glorified with fried cashews and raisins.
Wild rice is actually a form of grass that is found in the Great Lakes area of the northeastern U.S. It is gluten free and has an earthy, nutty flavor and texture to it. A little bit goes a long way. Roasting the squash and preparing the pulao can be done in parallel. The beauty of Delicata squash is that even the skin is edible, once roasted. Stuffing the roasted squash with the paneer pulao makes for a satisfying, hearty main. I can guarantee you that the meat will not be missed.
The finale is a Chai Masala, Bourbon & Halvah Apple Crumble. My signature chai masala is a blend that I have in my home at all times. I use it daily to make my morning boost, my cuppa chai, without which I cannot start my day. The filling has notes of bourbon, oranges and chai masala — giving all the cozy vibes. The topping has nutty oats, sliced almonds, almond flour and all-purpose flour, along with more chai masala, plus the ingredient that takes this crumble to next-level deliciousness: halvah, a sesame candy typically found in Middle Eastern markets. It truly makes this crumble one that will keep you coming back for more! Serve it with a drizzle of caramel or more halvah and rose petals on vanilla ice cream.
My hope is that this vegetarian menu will entice you to make a beautiful and memorable meal for your loved ones. I have broken down the menu so that many of the components are make-ahead so that you are not stressing on the day of. You’ll have time to relax, dress up and celebrate in style and flair, with love and laughter. Wishing you all a peaceful and joyous Thanksgiving.
This vegetarian menu includes many of my favorite Indian spices. Amisha Gurbani