San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
TOP SONOMA
Quail & Condor
One of the low-key most exciting openings in Healdsburg in recent years has been this small bakery just off the Redwood Highway, founded by couple Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey. The bright and sunny space is always packed with customers browsing the golden-brown landscape of pastries on the counter, cooing over kouign amanns ($6) and croissants ($5) swirled with vibrant green pesto. The bakery’s breads are showstoppers, too. There’s the super-seeded pan loaf ($10) made from an uber-nutritious porridge of quinoa, chia and flax, and a favorite Friday special is its bulbous, eggy challah ($10). Those breads are also showcased at Troubadour, its sandwich shop in downtown Healdsburg.
149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. www.quailandcondor.com or 707-473-8254
SingleThread
There is no SingleThread restaurant without its farm, and vice versa. Conceived in tandem by farmer-and-chef couple Katina and Kyle Connaughton, SingleThread’s twin operations have made it into a culinary powerhouse. At the Healdsburg restaurant, the farm’s incredibly fresh produce is the basis for an acrobatic 10-course tasting menu ($425) centered on Japanese techniques. The iconic first course is a sculptural platter of small plates — raw oysters, sashimi, caviar panna cotta and more — arranged around dewy leaves and sprouts from the farm. Other courses may include silken house-made tofu ladled out with a mushroom tea, and ice cream made of walnut miso served with earthy hojicha cake and a drizzle of nocino.
131 North St., Healdsburg. www.singlethreadfarms.com or 707-723-4646
Soban
There’s a lot of excellent food in Wine Country, but Korean food is still hard to find in the area. Soban, which opened in Petaluma in 2015, is one notable exception. Run by couple Sarah and Daniel Kim, the restaurant can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with its counterparts in the South Bay. Tender, bone-in galbi ($32), grilled chicken ($25) and other barbecue dishes come out on hot iron platters, and each can be upgraded with a set of spicy dipping sauce and lettuce for $4. Sarah Kim ferments the restaurant’s house kimchi for a minimum of four weeks and makes all the banchan from scratch, while Daniel Kim manages the front-of-house and readily explains dishes to newcomers to the cuisine.
255 N McDowell Blvd., Petaluma. www.sobanpetaluma.com or 707-769-3112
Spud Point
Known for its award-winning clam chowder, family-owned Spud Point Crab Co. is the perfect place to net a grab-and-go sandwich that you can take to the many overlooks on the Bodega coast. There’s nothing more poetic than eating seafood while perched on the breezy cliffs that surround the bay, taking in the scents of seawater, grilled oysters and steamed crab. Opened by the Anello family in 2004, the restaurant serves seafood that they and their small network of fishermen catch themselves, making this a must-stop whenever you’re in the area. You can buy whole, cooked crabs here, but don’t miss the crab sandwiches ($17.95) with crabmeat mixed with creamy and tangy Louie dressing and served on a toasted soft roll.
1910 Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. www.spudpointcrabco.com or 707-875-9472