San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Winter-friendly, spicy chicken skewers don’t even need the grill
Broiling adds a kiss of char and homemade za’atar brings a zingy herbaceousness
I’m not sure why I never learned how to sew, stitch or knit, but I can thread endless flavor combinations on a wooden stick. I usually save skewered meals — meat, vegetables, sometimes even dessert — for the summer, when it makes sense to grill and share a good time outdoors.
What I do know is that I’ve learned to love the kiss of char, the actual endless flavor possibilities and quick fire-time of cooking with skewers. This kind of naturally interactive meal cements the idea that I can make something that’s just as warming as, say, a knit beanie.
Winter isn’t the most obvious time to skewer. Usually the grill is stowed away, and the oven and stove-top are the main means of cooking, which also warm up the kitchen — my favorite part of my home. But, I will happily inform you that you can skewer any time of the year: with your broiler.
One skewer idea I like starts with smothering chunks of chicken thigh with a mixture of the Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar, which provides superb herbaceousness and nutty flavor. If you don’t already have a jar, it’s easy to make your own, which you can easily double or triple to have it more easily accessible in the future.
The main characters in za’atar are sesame, sumac and an herb like dried thyme or oregano. I prefer fresh herbs, almost always, so I make my own za’atar with chopped fresh oregano. A bit of garlic, crushed chile and lemon round out the blend and adhere to the chicken extremely well, making each bite super flavorful. Hopefully there’s some char, too.
Some quick pickles, creamy labneh and an incredibly tender couscous with wilted chard make this a super satisfying, summery meal to sew into the depths of our winter.