BIG BAKED PASTA SHELLS WITH TOMATO, RICOTTA AND CHARD

Serves 2 to 3

Big pasta shells ditch the stuffing, but embrace a luscious saucy coating in this satisfyingly rich and easy dish. That coating is a simmered tomato sauce spiked with fruity red wine, sauteed garlic, salty anchovies and a bit of crushed chile. The usual filling suspects are still around; greens like winter’s charming chard swims around the tomato sauce and dollops of creamy ricotta bake into the pasta and sauce. To serve 4 to 5, double the ingredients and use a 9-by-13-inch baking dish instead of a skillet.

• Diamond Crystal kosher salt

• 8 ounces jumbo shells or paccheri pasta

• 6 ounces fresh ricotta cheese

• 2 teaspoons lemon zest

• 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 1 cup diced yellow onion

• 1 bunch Swiss chard (about 6 ounces), stems and leaves separately chopped

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

• 3 anchovies in oil, drained

• 1 teaspoon red chile flakes, plus more for serving

• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, plus more for serving

• ½ cup medium bodied red wine

• 14 ounces canned tomato sauce

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil, cook the pasta until a bit firmer than al dente (about 2 minutes less than the packaging directs you to), stirring occasionally (to keep the shells separated, which helps them cook evenly). Scoop out ½ cup pasta water to save, then drain and set aside until sauce is ready. In a small bowl, mix together the ricotta, lemon zest and salt to taste with a fork and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a large oven-proof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high. Once the oil is hot, add the onion, chard stems (keep leaves aside), garlic and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are soft and mostly translucent, about 10 minutes.

Add the anchovies and break them up into small pieces with your stirring tool, then add the chile flakes and black pepper. Pour in the red wine and let simmer and reduce down to ¼ cup, then add the tomato sauce, bring to a simmer, stir and turn down the heat to medium-low.

Stir in the chard leaves. Once they’re slightly wilted and coated with sauce, stir in the ½ cup pasta water. Taste, season with salt (or more of the other seasonings, if desired) and fold in the cooked shells. Toss to coat well, then spoon several mounds of the seasoned ricotta in between the shells. Drizzle the remaining olive oil over the top then bake in the oven until the sauce is bubbly, the shells have browned edges, and the ricotta is melty and light golden, about 30 minutes. Serve hot with more black pepper and crushed chile flakes, if desired.