San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Brunch with Michelin cred
As one of the splashiest newer arrivals to North Beach, Hilda and Jesse dazzles with its retro-chic diner decor — chrome-accented chairs; pastel striped wallpaper — and playful three-course tasting menus served at brunch and dinner. Chef Kristina Compton takes the basic brunch and sprinkles loads of California fine dining flair with dishes like a savory cabbage with toasted pecans, and golden-toasted hash brown with rich pork sausage. Perennial standouts on the everchanging brunch menu include the “toastless” avocado toast — with a tempura sweet potato layered with sour cream, horseradish and chunky bits of avocado — and a double stack of buttermilk pancakes oozing with maple syrup flavored with mesquite grilled fruits for a sticky, slightly savory mess. At $49, this is one of the few buzzy tasting menus that won’t totally break the bank for a party of two, landing it a place in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand class of 2022. A dinner tasting menu is available later in the day. 5:30-9 p.m. Monday, Thursday-Friday 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. 701 Union St. hildaandjessesf.com
Or try one of these options:
Caffe Trieste: Caffe Trieste oozes old-school cool with its lived-in feel and classic beverage menu. There are no single-origin pour-overs or neon-colored frappes at this North Beach institution: You’ll find classic espresso drinks like tall lattes and stiff cappuccinos, along with tea, soft drinks and a few wines. You can really mainline the Italian vibe by drinking your espresso standing up and getting on with your day, like they do in the old country. However, the space really opens up the longer you stay, preferably with an almond biscotto or a warm panini. Spend enough time inside and the picture of Francis Ford Coppola, who wrote parts of “The Godfather” on the cafe’s tables, starts to look back at you. Time almost turns back on weekend mornings, with decades-long regulars playing cards while others put down their newspaper to slowly sip from steaming mugs. Cash only. 601 Vallejo St. coffee.caffetrieste.com
Osmanthus Dim Sum: North Beach borders and mingles with Chinatown, so no surprise that it features excellent Chinese dining options, including the newer dim sum destination Osmanthus. The telltale sign that it’s worth a stop? The restaurant’s list of 17 teas from local shop Vital Tea Leaf, complete with detailed tasting notes. The check-list style food menu includes options like steamed egg yolk buns, spicy wontons and sweet, cracklytopped pork buns. If you’re checking out Osmanthus later in the day, take advantage of the restaurant’s large selection of whiskey, a relative rarity at dim sum spots. 504 Broadway. osmanthusdimsum.com