COVER STORY

decadent and came with a side of paratha to mop up every molecule of the lavish beef gravy. The sensational octopus ($19), on the other hand, had a uber-tender chew and coriander seed zing.

In terms of larger plates, the staff will likely direct you to the Dindigul-style chicken biryani ($32), but I found the rice a tad overcooked and the seasoning a little overbearing. The Konkan crab curry ($36) had excellent spicing and the accompanying egg appam (a bowl-shaped flatbread made with fermented rice flour) was crisp, but eating everything together proved to be a difficult mess.

Instead, I’d say go for the Hamachi collar ($42), full of melty flesh in a sumptuous fish head gravy. Equally attractive was the banana leafwrapped black cod pollichathu ($42) for its aromatic tenderness and coconut-sweet side broth. If you’re wondering if you should order the dosa ($24), you should. It had a glorious sheen and came in a triangle shape — its pointy edges extended past the 8inch plate. It’s served with a spiced potato mixture underneath, along with more chutneys.

Copra is equally skilled at desserts, making for another difficult decision. Perhaps the God’s Own coconut variation ($15) is the most apt, since it displays coconut, a vital ingredient in South Indian cuisine, in myriad ways. (Copra itself means dried coconut.) The dish has caramelized coconut, coconut porridge, coconut milk, coconut “snow” and hidden bits of mango gelee — all these components converge to create an icy, perpetually refreshing treat. But the semi-frozen bay leaf slice ($12), a semifreddo-like cream dusted with vibrant green powdered bay leaves, was more impressive still — conjuring images of the lush landscapes of Kerala.

Speaking to chef Gopinathan about Copra, he becomes a kid again, infectiously giggling as he explains the particular inspiration for certain dishes. He’s taken to heart his mother’s nudge to bring things home, and Copra displays that sense of homecoming from the first chutneys to the final bites. Sometimes mother knows best.

Photos Adam Pardee/Special to The Chronicle Banana leaf-wrapped black cod pollichathu is served with a coconut-sweet side broth and ghee rice.

Semi-frozen Bay Leaf Slice, a semifreddo-like cream dusted with vibrant green powdered bay leaves, conjures images of the lush landscapes of Kerala.

Executive chef Srijith Gopinathan puts the final touches on rasam poori at Copra.

Thattukada Fried Chicken at Copra is aggressively fragrant with spice and a delicate crunch.