Devour a flavor-packed, vegetarian Indian feast at Besharam

Besharam, tucked inside the modern art gallery the Minnesota Street Project, served meat when it opened in 2018 — but that changed in 2021, after chef Heena Patel parted ways with former partner Daniel Patterson. No one here will miss animal protein: The menu, divided into four Indian regions, is bursting with flavor and texture. Start with one of the parathas — either the sweeter Paresh’s ($13), filled with Point Reyes blue cheese, or more savory Dabeli ($14), topped with peanut relish and spicy chutney. The malai koftas ($25), luscious paneer croquettes floating in a creamy cashew gravy, demand to be sopped up with the garlic naan ($6) filled with pine nuts, sunflower seeds and mozzarella cheese. A menu of excellent, often spicy cocktails is complemented by a strong non-alcoholic drink selection, including the plummy kala khatta soda ($8). 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. 1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco. besharamrestaurant.com

Or try one of these options:

Ungrafted: One of the city’s best wine bars, Ungrafted is owned by two veteran sommeliers. While it’s a great spot for a quick glass of Champagne at the bar, it’s even better for a full meal. No matter what entree you order, be sure to start with the za’atar pull-apart bread ($10). Noon-8 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday, noon-9 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. 2419 3rd St., San Francisco. ungraftedsf.com

Piccino and Bar Piccino: This Italian restaurant has summoned a loyal neighborhood clientele since 2006, and it’s even more inviting since reopening after a big renovation in 2022. The veggie-heavy appetizers and delicate pastas, like the seafoodtopped spaghetti rosso ($29), make for a satisfying, unfussy meal. The new renovation also added a lively cocktail bar with a separate entrance (and separate menu). Piccino open 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. Bar Piccino open 4-10 p.m. WednesdayThursday, 4 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday. 1001 Minnesota St., San Francisco. piccino.com

Amaya Edwards/Special to The Chronicle The Oaxacan Bird at Bar Piccino in the Dogpatch.