San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Next-level leftovers sandwiches
Pair Thanksgiving turkey with leeks cooked down in garlic and butter
Anytime I take part in a big meal, like on Thanksgiving, I’m thrilled to have leftovers. To me, it just means I’ve made extra, a more positive way to describe what didn’t get finished the first time around. I think the most important thing you can make with these “extra” tasty blessings is a sandwich.
If you don’t agree, I’m not sure how to process that. I could probably write a short book about this, but I’ll settle for a short essay instead.
First, because we make a lot of side dishes on Thanksgiving, there are usually several variations of sandwiches you can make with leftovers, making it a fun, exciting and imaginative endeavor. Second, Thanksgiving can feel like a lot. It can be chaotic, or like there’s just not enough room on the plate or my stomach for it all. But a sandwich is a special little meal that manages to contain it, from the turkey to the sauce. Finally, a sandwich is just delicious.
My post-Thanksgiving sandwich doesn’t ever have stuffing in it, though you could “stuff ” some in if you want. My sandwich also doesn’t have cranberry sauce, though that would probably be a nice touch. There is, however, turkey.
Rather than simply throw leftovers onto bread, though, my sandwich actually involves a little bit of cooking. (Not a lot, just enough.)
I start by cooking down a tangle of leeks, garlic and thyme in butter until they fully relax (like I usually do the day after Thanksgiving). They relax so much that they are not squeaky anymore, but rather tender, almost silky in texture. This sounds like it takes a long time, but it’s quick. And if you want to scale up to have “extra” leftover melted leeks, they go really well in braises, soups and, of course, more sandwiches.
As for the bread, I’m using brown butter focaccia that I made for Thanksgiving, but you can use whatever you have around. (If you want to make brown butter focaccia just for this, the recipe is available from my last column.)
Add slices of roast turkey (or even braised turkey leg, like I also made this year), a big smear of mustard, mayonnaise and slices of salty-nutty aged white cheddar, and you’ve got yourself a sandwich that I know I have no trouble finishing.