San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
The 5 best burritos in S.F.’s Mission District
From tried and trues to trailblazers, 15 acclaimed restaurants whittled down to top 5
I’ve been consuming an alarming number of burritos lately — all in the pursuit of understanding the current landscape of the Mission burrito and who makes it best.
To start, I read many accounts online. The majority noted the same usual suspects while others cast their votes for a new burrito king of the hill. Sadly, many of those rankings don’t hold the same weight they once did. That’s because Mexican food, like the Mission burrito, isn’t static.
I figured it’s prime time for a new hierarchy of Mission burritos to be established. One that takes into account established institutions and the many new faces that have since joined the neighborhood.
I went to more than 15 acclaimed restaurants for research. I picked super burritos de asada as my baseline, as steak was undoubtedly the best-selling filling across taquerias. But if a place excelled at something else — like the marinated tofu at Papalote or the chicharron at La Espiga De Oro — I tried that, too. I’ve also omitted La Taqueria from consideration because of its controversial omission of rice — but I am a fan, for the record.
Despite some taquerias coasting on their reputations, I think the Mission burrito is alive and well. Some institutions still impress after decades in the game, while newer trailblazers take it to the next level.
These are the five best Mission burritos, ranked.
5. Taqueria El Farolito
El Farolito may have outposts sprinkled throughout San Francisco and the East Bay, but there’s a distinct savor and sazon to the 40-year-old original location on 24th Street. The interior is unassuming with yellow seats, hospital lighting and a no-frills approach to customer service. Each burrito ($9.50) — a strong deal by any metric — is roughly the length of a forearm and as heavy as a chubby puppy. Carne asada is the move here. Even if it isn’t perfect, it’s plentiful with a hint of char. In spite of the gamut of ingredients, each component plays off of each other well without distracting from the asada.
The salsas are solid, too, though I craved more spice and flavor.
4. Chuy’s Fiestas
Chuy’s Fiestas has become a local favorite for mariscos, with its lovely patio that simulates a beachside cabana. For the super burritos ($12.25), you’ll want to stick to al pastor, which has a piercing marinade that offers more flavor than asada. My favorite burrito here is the massive, crispy flattop burrito ($11.50) which, like at La Taqueria, is rice-less. It’s toasted until the tortilla becomes spotted and crisp. If you’re a rice enthusiast, you can also order the super burrito crispy, which ensures better distribution of heat.
2341 Folsom St., San Francisco. 9 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. https:// chuysfiestas.com/
3. La Palma Mexicatessen
La Palma is a haven to stock up on Mexican goods; you’ll find corn tortillas in sweaty bags, fried pork in glass houses and color-coded salsa containers in a fridge. It is not uncommon to encounter a line of people at the market and restaurant chasing delights, especially its lovely burritos. They achieve a delicate harmony of elements centered around juicy strips of asada ($13), whose life force really animates this burrito. If the salsa, which draws sweetness from tomatoes, had a stronger kick, La Palma would soar even higher.
2884 24th St., San Francisco. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Saturday; Sunday 9 a.m.-4 p.m. http://www.lapalmasf.com/
2. La Espiga De Oro
The squat size of Espiga’s burritos, nowhere near the toddler size we’ve come to expect of the form, might be its secret weapon. That means that the construction is more selective, so you’re unlikely to encounter bites with too much rice. The market, panaderia and restaurant wraps its burritos ($11) in translucent tortillas. Here, chicharron is king. It keeps its intoxicating crunch, and the scant accompanying ingredients like rice, beans and avocado work to highlight the fried pork. The burrito is good on its own without much need for salsa, but a squirt of lime slices through the richness.
2916 24th St., San Francisco. 6:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday-Wednesday, 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Thursday. 415-826-1363.
1. La Vaca Birria
Newcomer La Vaca Birria’s burritos fire on all cylinders, going to great lengths to ensure that every aspect is tiptop. The tortillas are warmed up with rendered beef tallow, a charcoal grill gives carne asada deeper flavor and the beef birria has a profound flavor profile unequaled in San Francisco. These components give Vaca’s burritos an edge over its contemporaries, going toe-totoe with the best all over the Bay Area. You could order a super ($15), but the grilled cheese burrito ($17) is the taqueria’s more memorable take on the Mission burrito. What distinguishes this burrito is a thick cheese skirt that corrects the cold cheese issue of many other burritos. A sear on the plancha locks in all the flavors. I suggest going with birria for its intense flavor or the asada, which boasts a bracing smokiness. What really seals the deal are the salsas made with scorched ingredients that add even more smoke and depth.
2962 24th St., San Francisco. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. https:// www.lavacabirria.com/