San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Tired of cooking? These three toasts satisfy with simplicity
After holiday indulgence, this trio bridges gap between laziness and decadence
Ah, the post-Thanksgiving lull. In between holiday indulgences, my cravings for delicious food are definitely still here, but my desire to be in the kitchen for any lengthy amount of time is not. It’s the time of year that I usually make soups or stews, or just put things on toast.
Though I’ve embraced several breads for toasting over the years, the English muffin holds a special place in my heart, especially during the fall when comfort is king. It’s also a very practical toast. It’s famous for its nooks and crannies, but the fact that those nooks and crannies are held in by the solid exterior is what really gets me. The English muffin will hold a ridiculous amount of sauce, spread, butter, whatever. It’s a really humble, unsung hero for an effortless yet satisfying meal.
So, here I am with a few different toast ideas for you. It’s a trio that I like to think bridges the gap between laziness and decadence.
First in line is a toasted English muffin crowned with creamy tahini. Its nutty undertones mingle with the burst of tangy, sassy pomegranate seeds, all harmonized by the crunch of toasted pine nuts and some fresh mint. It’s an ode to simplicity.
Next comes the umamipacked toast. I make a miso butter with softened butter, white miso and lemon zest. It’s rich, bright and tangy all at once. I spread that over the toasted English muffin, and then top it with some pan-roasted mushrooms that have wilted garlic and scallion folded in. This toast is super savory and feels downright luxurious.
The last toast has a proper schmear of tangy sour cream, creamy black beans and a quick cilantro-chile oil. I make that cilantro-chile oil by simply pounding cilantro (tender, watery cilantro is one of the easier herbs to do this with) into a paste and then folding in store-bought chile oil. If you don’t have chile oil, you can just add some red chile flakes and extra-virgin olive oil and call it a day. If you have a jar of chile crisp, you can also scoop out that top layer of oil.
These toasts embody the essence of this in-between time. To me, it’s time to chill and unwind, to perhaps bake cookies, catch up on projects, toast toasts and enjoy the brief respite from the holidays.
Serves 2
1 cup cooked black beans, with their bean liquid
Salt
cup chopped cilantro leaves and stems
cup chile oil 2 English muffins
cup sour cream or yogurt
Add the cooked black beans to a small pot. There should be enough bean liquid in the pot to help them come to a simmer without burning. If not, add just enough water to help submerge them. Turn the heat to medium, bring to a simmer and then turn off heat. Season to taste with salt and set aside.
Add the chopped cilantro to a mortar and pestle, sprinkle lightly with salt and then pound until you have a rough paste. Stir in the chile oil and set aside. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, finely chop the cilantro and mix with the chile oil in a small bowl. Toast the English muffins and let cool. To serve, spread the sour cream on the cut side of the muffins, then transfer to a plate. Top with the beans and then drizzle the cilantro-chile oil over the top.