San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Salsa literally soars at this Bay Area taqueria
Every time Alex Ceja flicks a spoonful of salsa in the air, he channels a generation of taqueros that came before him. While the blob of liquid is suspended midair, Ceja assumes the role of physicist, adjusting his hand just so as he catches every drop of salsa with a taco.
Ceja has taken up the family profession with his smash hit taqueria Tacos El Panzon. Previously operating out of a parking lot in Richmond, and now based in Vallejo, Panzon commands hordes of people wanting to see the salsa spectacle. That flourish is a constant source of customer delight and amusement, but it simultaneously honors Ceja’s family legacy of taqueros from Chavinda — a city in the Mexican state of Michoacan. There, the salsa toss is a rite of passage.
Tacos El Panzon falls in line with an ongoing shift in the Bay Area’s taco space that values seeing the product made before your eyes. A visit to Panzon isn’t just an outing for dinner. The theatrics make it an event that gives diners deeper appreciation for the food. It’s an example of the way that life forms around a taqueria, providing a community gathering place.
Prepare yourself for a line. It’s part of the experience. Each step toward the bubbling vat of redtinted meat heightens your appetite.
Panzon’s menu consists of tacos ($3.50), tortas ($15), mulitas ($4), burritos ($15) and quesadillas ($14), and only four fillings: chorizo, al pastor, pollo and asada. What distinguishes the tacos here is the use of lard — bearing a close resemblance to Mexico City tacos. A steel cauldron becomes a meat Jacuzzi for chorizo links, beef and marinated pork. The pork fat clings to each tortilla, adding a tamale-like savor.
When you finally get to the front, the taqueros make you feel like the most important person in the world. It’s likely that Ceja or his father, Jose Luis Ceja, will be making your tacos. Jose Luis has the same flair for the dramatic as his son, except his salsa flick was refined over 12 years of working at Chavinda taco stands — relying on the muscle memory of repetition.
He wears a thin mustache, a red apron and a grin. It’s electric to watch him work.
You give him your ticket, tell him your meat preference, pull your phone out to record and enjoy the show. He expertly chops steaming hunks of meat with a cartoonishly big dagger; scoops up the morsels with a tortilla and a swift flip of the knife; then dresses it with cilantro, onions and that trademark salsa toss. His throw has a little more hang time and finesse.
Witnessing it never gets old.
Social media agrees. Perhaps even more popular online than the tacos are the mega tortas ($35), a 15-inch behemoth known as the Panzona. A local influencer extolled its excessive size in a video that’s gained over 2 million views on Instagram. In line, teenagers show their parents the video and bewilderment turns into raucous hunger for the challenge it presents. Ultimately, I felt the uncomplicated ethos of the tacos didn’t translate to the torta.
The burrito, on the other hand, is a worthy option — especially with a toothsome mix of asada and chorizo, at no extra charge. Its virtues have a lot to do with an even distribution of flavor. The porky essence of the meat and the earthiness of the salsa settle nicely into the refried beans and rice.
That said, I think tacos are the heart of the taqueria. The asada is tender but still has chew. The chorizo tastes of chiles. And the al pastor has a piercing adobo. For the best results, eat them immediately.
Before the taqueria landed in Vallejo, El Panzon initially opened in Richmond in March in a lot shared with a food truck and a dessert vendor. It only took two months for the salsa trick to catch the eyes of locals. By the end of summer, Ceja started to encounter pushback from the community for his long lines. Except it didn’t come from city officials or the police. It came from other businesses. The pressure sparked his decision to move his operation to Vallejo, but he hopes to reopen the Richmond location next year.
The repotting worked. Droves of loyal fans showed up to the grand opening. It had a similar vibe as before: The taqueria was behind a L-shaped formation of canopies, with plenty of seating on the opposite end. Kids ran around appraising the premises for the best after-dinner snack. In December, it moved to a new Vallejo location.
Ceja was the last of his bloodline to show any interest in the family trade. Now, he’s carrying on the tradition for Chavida and his family — especially his dad, who long dreamed of opening his own taqueria. Jose Luis is astounded that his son made it a reality.
All of this is the weight behind each salsa flick — a family heirloom that’s been passed down for generations. The key is timing, waiting for the right moment to reach out and catch your fate.