San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Sip these sparkling wines instead of Champagne
Bring in new year with U.S. brands or fruity Lambrusco
As we enter the holiday season, many of us turn to bubbles. But often forgotten is the wide variety of sparkling wines that are not Champagne or domestic facsimiles, some of which deliver even better drinking experiences at lower price points.
What makes a wine Champagne or a Champagne-style wine? In France, the wines must come from the specific borders of the Champagne AOC, set by the French government. They also must contain only the three approved Champagne varietals (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay), and be produced using méthode traditionelle (traditional method), with its second fermentation in the bottle.
But this method of sparkling wine production is widely used across multiple continents and for many varietals besides those allowed in Champagne. And there are other methods to produce sparkling wines of course, notably those utilizing large tanks for the secondary fermentation. But it’s worth seeking out additional categories of sparkling wine, both for their flavor characteristics and to impress your guests with something new.
Crémant
This category of French sparkling wine is broad and often misunderstood by American consumers. Generally, it refers to any traditional method sparkling wine produced in France outside of the Champagne region.
Alsace is the largest producer of Crémant, and its reputation for aromatic and dynamic white wines extends to its sparkling production. Many of the best wines from this region use grapes like Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Auxerrois. Some are single varietal, but most Crémant wines feature a blend. Sparkling rosés tend to be Pinot Noir-based, but unlike those in Champagne, they aren’t a blend of red and white. These zippy high-acid wines are especially great with pork dishes, cutting through the richness of holiday classics like glazed ham.
Another standout region for
Crémant is the Loire Valley. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc are all used for sparkling wines here, with excellent results. Chenin Blanc-based Crémant from the village of Vouvray is especially worth seeking out, with just a touch of residual sugar. It’s an excellent richer pairing for charcuterie boards.
Notable producers: Charles Bauer, Lucien Albrecht, Huet, Denis Meunier
Cava
This is Spain’s answer to Champagne, utilizing the same production process but with Spanish grape varietals like Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo. All three of these white grape varietals are commonly blended, although single varietal Cava is becoming more common. For example, the richer flavors of Macabeo may be blended with the lively and fresh characteristics of Xarel·lo.
Cava is also considerably cheaper than most well-known Champagnes, and tends to be lighter and brighter on the palate.
These wines are always from a single vintage, something that is rare for reasonably priced Champagnes. Consider it a middle ground between the lightness of Prosecco and the fuller mouthfeel associated with Champagne — and a great answer when needing reasonably priced wine for a crowd.
Notable producers: Cava Guilera, Freixenet, Gramona, Bodegas Muga
Lambrusco
Both the name of a family of Italian grapes and the resulting sparkling red wine, Lambrusco is in the throes of a resurgence. Primarily fermented in large tanks, the wines tend to be budget-friendly crowd pleasers. Beyond satisfying red wine lovers in search of holiday bubbles, they’re also incredibly versatile to pair with food — and can come in dry or sweet renditions. Think Beaujolais Nouveau meets carbonation, with typical fruity notes of watermelon, cherry and blackberry. The fuller body and tannins help this wine pair well with hefty holiday fare, including main courses like prime rib and beef wellington.
Notable Producers: Zanasi, Lini, Fattoria Moretto, Cantina Paltrinieri
Unusual American Sparkling Wines
The U.S. has many wellknown traditional sparkling wine brands. In the Bay Area, local producers like Iron Horse, Schramsberg and Gloria Ferrer appear at many holiday events with excellent Champagne-style sparklers. But beyond the Champagne equivalents are a bevy of more unusual sparkling wines produced from different grapes and production styles.
Pét-nat may be the first thing that comes to mind when considering alternative domestic sparkling wine options. This category has become associated with the natural wine movement, with a cloudy look and funky flavors. However, it’s important to note that pét-nat merely refers to an older technique to ferment sparkling wines using just a single fermentation inside the bottle. It’s not a stylistic category. Many Pétnats have clean, crisp and fruitforward flavor profiles, and they can be a fresher, low-alcohol alternative to mainstream sparkling wine. Quality producers like Petaluma’s Cruse Wine Co. are a good place to start, with pétnats from less common varietals like St. Laurent and Valdiguie.
There are also traditional method domestic sparkling wines crafted from outside the Champagne grape family. Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc all shine in Champagne-style releases. Napa producer Gamling & McDuck’s C’est la Berézina is an esoteric example of a white sparkling wine crafted from Cabernet Franc grapes, combining the bright acidity and rustic fruit profile of Cabernet Franc with trademark Champagne yeast.