San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

A lemon cake you’ll want to eat all week

Buttery, citrusy and not too sweet, this loaf cake takes advantage of Meyer lemon season

- By Christian Reynoso Reach Christian Reynoso: food@sfchronicl­e.com

I heard on a podcast recently that babies are naturally drawn to sweet foods. Well, I’m pretty sure I wasn’t that type of baby. In fact, I don’t think my sweet tooth ever really grew in. I’m not exactly what you’d call a sweets guy or cake enthusiast.

If I’m going to bake a dessert, my inclinatio­n is toward something flaky and buttery, like a good pie with a fruity filling that’s close to natural sweetness. However, when I find myself in the mood for cake, I lean toward the charm of a loaf. A loaf cake has a way of teasing my taste buds. It leaves me wanting more, never overshares and is never too sugary. It’s always just right. I affectiona­tely refer to them as my Monday through Thursday Cakes.

They’re the kind of cakes you whip up on a lazy Sunday afternoon and then enjoy the rest of the week: a slice on Monday for a quick breakfast, a light dessert for Tuesday and Wednesday, and maybe even griddle a slab in some butter until golden and crisp on Thursday. They rarely make it to Friday, but these sturdy cakes can last all week.

Meyer lemons are in season and great to bake with because of their well-rounded citrus flavor and mild rinds. They’ve become my new go-to for this kind of cake. I love chopping them whole and folding them into a buttery batter speckled with crunchy poppy seeds. It’s a classic flavor combinatio­n, but Meyer lemons give it more depth with a note of tangerine.

When you put multiple whole lemons in a cake, you might think it’s going to be overwhelmi­ngly lemony or bitter, but fear not. This is a cake that’s just lemony enough, just sweet enough, and just the right kind of cake to normalize eating cake all week — before you make another on the weekend.

 ?? Christian Reynoso/Special to the Chronicle ?? This lemony poppy seed loaf cake gets its crunchy top from demerara sugar.
Christian Reynoso/Special to the Chronicle This lemony poppy seed loaf cake gets its crunchy top from demerara sugar.

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