DEBONAIR ASPARAGUS WITH WHITE WINE BUTTER SAUCE

Serves 2 to 4 as a side

A classic combination never fails, and that’s the goal here with gently poached asparagus and a luxurious butter sauce generously spooned over. Known as a beurre blanc in French, this is a sauce made by simmering white wine and shallots until the wine is reduced to a miniscule amount, then cold butter is whisked in, creating a thick yet light tasting emulsified butter sauce. Serve this sauce soon after it’s made, as it will thicken and eventually harden just like melted butter will.

• 1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons dry and crisp white wine

• 1 bunch asparagus, tough woody ends trimmed

• 1 small shallot (1 ounce), thinly sliced into rings

• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced (optional)

• Salt

• 1 stick of butter, cubed and chilled

• 1 lemon (optional)

Start by adding the wine and shallots to a small saucepan. If using garlic, add that as well. Turn on the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Cook, swirling and stirring occasionally, until liquid is almost fully evaporated and only 1 to 2 tablespoons remain in the pot. Turn off the heat. Heat about 1 inch of water in a pan large enough that your asparagus can lay flat. Bring the water to a boil and season with salt (like you would for pasta water). Once the salt is dissolved, lay the asparagus spears in the water. The water will stop boiling and the asparagus will likely float. Keep cooking (no need to swish them around) until the water comes up to a boil. This will take about 30 to 45 seconds for thin spears and longer for thick ones. (To test doneness, prod with a fork; they should be tender but still stand up and not flop.) Transfer to a pad of paper towels and spread out to dry and cool. Bring the small saucepan back on over very low heat. In three to four batches, add the chilled butter cubes and vigorously whisk to incorporate into the reduced wine and shallots as the butter melts — it should start to look creamy and thick as you slowly add more and more butter. If you see streaks of fat forming, take off heat and whisk in a tiny amount of cool water, which should help keep it emulsified. Once all the butter is incorporated, take off heat if you haven’t already, and season with salt.

Serve the asparagus by first arranging on a platter. Then spoon the white wine, shallot and butter sauce over. You will have more sauce than you probably needed for plating, so transfer that to a small bowl and serve on the side. Finely grate lemon zest over, if you’d like.