San Francisco Chronicle (Sunday)

Put a Spanish spin on the everyday omelet

Potato cake with smoked cheese, paprika perfect for picnics

- By Christian Reynoso Reach Christian Reynoso: food@sfchronicl­e.com

This week’s recipe might remind you of a Tortilla Española, the beloved savory egg, potato and onion cake. That’s because it almost is! If you’re not familiar, the dish is an inverted savory cake (like an upside-down cake), usually sliced into wedges and served as an appetizer or even a lighter main meal. Note that it has nothing to do with the Mexican tortilla.

Usually served at room temperatur­e, this tortilla is perfect for eating any time of day, and it makes for easy traveling for that summer picnic in the park. Some also call it a Spanish Tortilla, Tortilla De Papas or Spanish Omelet, however I prefer calling it a tortilla, which basically translates to cake because it is the diminutive form of torta, literally meaning “small cake.” So, is this essentiall­y a small potato and egg cake? Yes. How adorable, right?

Continuing with that adorable theme, apparently there is even a festival in Bilbao in the Basque Country in northern Spain, where competitor­s challenge each other to the best tortilla. Dozens of golden wheels of potato and egg are displayed on a very long table before being tested and judged.

I do not believe my recipe for Smoked Cheese, Egg and Potato Cake should be in the running because, well, first of all I don’t cook it very traditiona­lly. I don’t cook this “cake” all on the stovetop like a true Spaniard and then awkwardly invert it. I avoid that and any egg or oil splatter (which, sorry, is bound to happen, even a little bit). I cook the bottom of the cake on the stove and finish cooking the top in the convenienc­e of my oven; I have this hunch that ovens didn’t exist when the Spanish Omelet was invented.

I also add smoked cheese (not traditiona­l in a tortilla) and spices (also not really traditiona­l). Which leads me to call this a potato cake because I do my best to respect a tradition. The end result is not only rich and cheesy, but also flavorfull­y spiced with peppery smoked paprika. In some ways these practices make my tortilla a little like a frittata, which is known for having multiple ingredient­s and is also cooked in the oven. (Let’s talk more about it in the future.)

 ?? Christian Reynoso/Special to the Chronicle ?? Similar to an upside-down cake, this Smoked Cheese, Egg and Potato Cake borrows from the tortillas (a small version of a torta, or cake) of Spain.
Christian Reynoso/Special to the Chronicle Similar to an upside-down cake, this Smoked Cheese, Egg and Potato Cake borrows from the tortillas (a small version of a torta, or cake) of Spain.

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