San Francisco Chronicle

Pleasanton perks up region’s palate

Main Street matures with a variety of menus, prices, influences for a growing city

- By Nicholas Boer Nicholas Boer is a freelance writer. E-mail: food@ sfchronicl­e.com

With big chains at Stoneridge Mall and independen­t restaurant­s found throughout the wide stretch between downtown and Interstate 580, Pleasanton has grown up. But stick to charming Main Street — with its many alfresco options — for the truest taste of this once-small town.

You can choose from the dozens of dining options on and off Main Street by taking a leisurely stroll from the Old Pleasanton Hotel on one end to the 50-year-old Gay Nineties Pizza on the other. Or use our cheat sheet here to home in on some of the more compelling possibilit­ies.

Handles Gastropub: If a cold beer — or root beer — begins to sound pretty good after a day of wine tasting, Handles will satisfy. This new venture, housed in a historic building that was once the Pleasanton Hotel, offers dozens of American and European ales, porters — even ciders — all on tap. The soul of the brewery is a relaxed and sprawling “public house,” but if you’re after a quiet night, the old hotel dining room offers privacy and picturesqu­e views. The menu of updated pub food can be hit and miss, but a pint, an iceberg wedge salad (made with Point Reyes blue cheese), and a plate of fresh fish and chips can hit the spot.

855 Main St. (near Ray Street), Pleasanton; (925) 3996690; handlesgas­tropub.com.

Blue Agave Club: The big draws here are the specialty Tequilas, terrific margaritas and sprawling shaded courtyard. But the menu — while on the pricey side — is worth a trip, particular­ly if you order more than tacos and enchiladas. Try the mole poblano or camarones xochitl made with cuitlacoch­e, a truffle-like fungus. The carne asada and hanger steak are flavorful, but, on our visit, the much-vaunted 100-yearold enjococado sauce was nearly as bland as the dry chicken it moistened. Indoor dining has a colorful, hacienda feel. If you’re after a more value-priced and party-like Mexican experience, try Alberto’s Cantina two blocks down on Main Street.

625 Main St. (near St. Mary), Pleasanton; (925) 4171224. blueagavec­lub.com.

India Garden: This charming restaurant, for decades the home to Claude & Dominique’s, still radiates the homey feel of a country French bistro. But the warm service and colorful decor have a true Indian flavor. The chhole bhature — curried chickpeas with puffy fried bread — is a must-have shared appetizer or entree. The biryanis are enchanting­ly perfumed and come with plenty of kick, even when ordered medium. Choose a curry (goat is available) and your favorite sauced dishes instead of the restaurant’s tandoori specialtie­s, and skip the seafood.

210 Rose Ave. (near Main Street), Pleasanton; (925) 4854800. indiagarde­ncuisine.com.

Hap’s Original: Don’t be fooled by the circa ’50s, cowboy-friendly facade, complete with neon martini sign. Hap’s is now an upscale steak house with a dress code (business casual), compliment­ary crudites (perfect with cocktails) and 200 red wine selections (one of which is under $40). Hap’s aged steaks are fine — the filet with bearnaise was our favorite — and the sides and appetizers rock. So, while you can find ways to minimize the tab, it’s best to come here with an empty stomach, open wallet and a willingnes­s to be pampered.

122 W. Neal St. (near Main Street), Pleasanton; (925) 6009200. hapsorigin­al.com.

Fontina Ristorante: There are half a dozen Italian dining options on Main Street, but Fontina, sitting pretty at the edge of restaurant row, sets itself apart with bold flavors and an airy, contempora­ry ambience. Consistent­ly good (our recent visit here was as good as our first more than a dozen years ago), the kitchen turns out traditiona­l Italian American dishes that never get tired. Well suited to dining alfresco are the rustic sandwiches (lunch only) and the lighter pastas, such as the al dente angel hair with a hefty dose of garlic, olive oil, and chile flake. Those with richer tastes should seek out the homemade ravioli, penne with Gorgonzola, or one of the many veal dishes.

349 Main St. (near Abbie Street), Pleasanton; (925) 4629299. fontinas.com.

Oasis Grille and Wine Lounge: Whether you choose the front patio, the shaded rose garden or the more contempora­ry seating inside, Oasis provides an exotic experience that feels cool, relaxed and inviting. Stick with the traditiona­l Afghan dishes (the husband-and-wife team are from Kabul) such as borani. The sauteed eggplant version is lifted by fresh mint and yogurt, while the pumpkin borani, spiked with garlic and spice, is sweet and addictive. Generous main courses include kebabs of aromatic lamb and tender filet mignon. For a lighter touch, try the delicate beef dumplings called mantoo; or aushtak, flavorful purses of cilantro and leeks.

780 Main St. (near Ray Street), Pleasanton; (925) 4178438. oasisgrill­e.com.

Lokanta: The chef and manager of Pera in San Francisco opened this Turkish-influenced restaurant in May, bringing a grown-up vibe to Main Street. The atmosphere is contempora­ry yet comfortabl­e, with an exhibition kitchen up front, and a cozy bar in the back sunroom. Ovenroaste­d prawns, lamb kebabs and a whole bass spiked with ouzo are exceptiona­l, while Mediterran­ean-style salads and diminutive desserts of stuffed apricots and baklava let you indulge in multicours­e meals without regret.

443 Main St. (near West Neal Street), Pleasanton; (925) 2238074. eatlokanta.com.

 ?? Photos by Jason Henry / Special to The Chronicle ?? Sous chef Alejandro Loyola prepares an appetizer of prawns at the Turkish-influenced Lokanta restaurant in Pleasanton.
Photos by Jason Henry / Special to The Chronicle Sous chef Alejandro Loyola prepares an appetizer of prawns at the Turkish-influenced Lokanta restaurant in Pleasanton.
 ??  ?? Above left: The hanger steak at the Blue Agave Club in Pleasanton; right: grilled salmon topped with a mix of confetti vegetables in a bed of poblano tomatillo sauce at Blue Agave.
Above left: The hanger steak at the Blue Agave Club in Pleasanton; right: grilled salmon topped with a mix of confetti vegetables in a bed of poblano tomatillo sauce at Blue Agave.
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 ??  ?? Above: The iceberg wedge served with house peppered bacon and Point Reyes blue cheese at Handles Gastropub on Main Street; right: Handles Gastropub also boasts a wide selection of beers on tap.
Above: The iceberg wedge served with house peppered bacon and Point Reyes blue cheese at Handles Gastropub on Main Street; right: Handles Gastropub also boasts a wide selection of beers on tap.
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 ??  ?? The Afghan dish of ground beef mantoo, delicate beef dumplings, at Oasis Grille and Wine Lounge in Pleasanton.
The Afghan dish of ground beef mantoo, delicate beef dumplings, at Oasis Grille and Wine Lounge in Pleasanton.

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