Montecristo is tops, easily
In keeping with what we’ve often found in the rest of the city, San Francisco’s culinary scene can change dramatically in just a few short blocks.
Last week’s Square 46 was stuffed with a wide array of ethnic bakeries, produce stores and small restaurants, along with some pretty interesting bar food. This week’s square, immediately west, has few such offerings.
What it does have is McLaren Park, at 312 acres the second-largest park in the city, after Golden Gate Park. Much of McLaren is natural habitat, with forests and wild meadows stretching across the often foggy hilltops, crisscrossed with trails.
The southern edge is CrockerAmazon Playground — better known as Soccer Central. Five professional-style soccer fields are filled with competing teams most of the day. A bocce court, baseball diamonds, cricket field, skateboard park and more round out the complex, with a snackbar/pupuseria. Gleneagles nine-hole golf course is just up the hill.
With all this activity, you might expect plenty of brick-and-mortar food options nearby. But the rest of the square is almost entirely residential, with commercial activity restricted to Geneva Avenue.
That’s where you’ll find our winner, Montecristo Restaurant, directly across from the Cow Palace parking lot.
The small, family-run spot — spotless and cheerful, with bright green tablecloths and flowers on every table — features Mexican and Salvadoran home cooking, topping out at $13 for full meals.
Pupusas are a specialty, with eight combinations. Chicken comes in several guises, including encebollado — covered with rice; and milanesa, with french fries.
Churrasco Salvadoreno features a thin steak accompanied by links of fresh chorizo, rice, salad, salsa, avocado and house-made tortillas.
You’ll have to look for the place — a rock facade makes it easy to miss — but it’s a neighborhood highlight.
Montecristo Restaurant, 2101 Geneva Ave. (at Carrizal); (415) 334-2326. Open Thursday-Tuesday.