From the notebook

A collection of homegrown Gamay (and near-Gamay):

2011 Edmunds St. John Bone-Jolly El Dorado County Gamay Noir

($19, 13.3% alcohol): A mix of the El Dorado sites, this shows a distinct Gamay fruitiness meshed with savory celery salt and parsnip, plus sweet cassis and raspberry. You might still find the 2010 on shelves, and there’s a 2011 Rosé that brims with a strawberry freshness.

2011 Chehalem Ridgecrest Vineyards Ribbon Ridge Gamay Noir

($24, 12.1%): Chehalem’s estate vineyard has a bit of Gamay, and it’s a treat to try it on its own. Light and a bit mushroomy, with fennel seed and sour cherry, and a chive-like bite. Just right for grilled sausage (or stuffing).

2011 Evening Land Vineyards Seven Springs Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Gamay Noir

($22.50, 12.9%): Evening Land’s site in the Eola Hills has long had Gamay, and winemaker Isabelle Meunier provides a serious expression, with a rich forest earth side to plum skin flavors.

2011 Broc Cellars Solano County Green Valley Valdiguié

($20, 12.5%): Chris Brockway decided to show the best of what once would have been called Napa Gamay. From a vineyard near Fairfield, this shows a wonderful aromatic side: lilac, huckleberries, a dusty earth quality. Like a pint full of market-fresh berries.

2011 RPM El Dorado Gamay Noir

(price n/a, 12.8%): This new project, a mix of Witters and Barsotti vineyards, won’t be out until next year, but it links the power of a good Morgon with bright California fruit. Warm roasted spices — clove, fenugreek — and ripe cherry matched by...