SPQR ($26)
At this California-Italian restaurant, chef Matthew Accarrino softens the visual impact of huitlacoche by infusing it into butter, which he uses to coat yellow corn ravioli. Then he amplifies the subtle flavors of the dove-gray sauce with sweet corn, smoked goat cheese, mushrooms and toasted nuts. 1911 Fillmore St., S.F.; (415) 771-7779. www.spqrsf.com.