La Urbana ($25)

Julio Aguilera, chef of this modernist Mexican bistro, has discovered that huitlacoche pairs well with seared scallops. He places the sweet bivalves on a jet-black puree of fungus braised in corn stock with chiles and aromatics, framing the dish with cauliflower and kale chips. 661 Divisadero St., S.F.; (415) 440-4500. www.laurbanasf.com.