Characteristics:
Cherry tomatoes range in size from3⁄
8 inch or less to about 1 to 2 inches in diameter. They are “indeterminate,” which means they continue to grow and produce throughout the season and are hand harvested until frost kills the plant, unlike “determinate” or “bush” tomato varieties, which ripen at the same time. Varieties: There are a multitude of different shapes and a rainbow of colors, such as Sweet 100, Yellow Pear, Red Pear, White Cherry and the “plain” Red Cherry. The Black Cherry, an heirloom variety, has a good acid-sugar balance and is one of Miller’s favorites. Other favorites include the Sungold, an orange cherry tomato, which Miller says “tastes like summer.” Some smaller regular tomatoes such as Indigo Rose — a “black” variety named for its skin color — and Ben’s Yellow Pear are often displayed with cherry tomatoes and can be used interchangeably in most recipes.
How to select: Most cherry tomatoes in the markets are fairly ripe and ready to eat right away. If you want to keep them for awhile, select firm ones. The tomatoes should have a full, bright color and smooth, taut skin without any splits or bruising. The basket should smell fresh and tomato-y without any off odors. Lift and check the bottom of the basket any smashed tomatoes.
How to store: Keep the tomatoes in the green plastic baskets in which they were purchased. They need air circulation, so avoid plastic bags. Store cherry tomatoes at cool room temperature, but out of the sunlight. In general, cherry tomatoes don’t like to be refrigerated because it can be detrimental to their flavor and texture. However, cherry tomato specialist Fred Hempel of Baia Nicchia Farm in Sunol says they can hold their flavor for up to a week at warmer refrigerator temperatures. Some chefs store tomatoes in wine cellars set at 55 to 60 degrees, which is perfect to delay ripening without much loss of flavor.
Extras: Several Bay Area restaurants are featuring an all-tomato menu in coming weeks, including Oliveto (5655 College Ave., Oakland; (510) 5475356) Aug. 26-29; and One Market (1 Market St., San Francisco; (415) 7775577) Sept. 1-30. Oliveto (5655 College Ave., Oakland; (510) 547-5356) hosts a tomato tasting on Aug. 24. Go to www.oliveto.com for details. Kendall-Jackson holds its 18th annual Heirloom Tomato Festival on Sept. 27 at the wine estate and gardens in Fulton (Sonoma County). Go to www.kj. comfor more information.