San Francisco Chronicle

The devil is in the details

- Two Sisters Bar& Books: 579Hayes St. (near Laguna), S.F.; (415) 863-3655. www. 2sistersba­randbooks.com. Open TuesdaySun­day. — Paolo Lucchesi, plucchesi@sfchronicl­e.com Twitter: @lucchesi

There are many components of a great bar snack.

It needs to be easily consumed, preferably­with the hands. It should arrive in a timely manner. Of course, itmust be accompanie­d by a respectabl­e libation, be it a cold beer, an interestin­g wine or awell-made cocktail. And the settingmus­t be enjoyable.

On all these counts, and more, the deviled eggs at Two Sisters Bar& Books succeed. They come three at a time for $5. Sliced cleanly across the short axis (rather than the unwieldy, nay, brutish, long one), they are familiar relatives to the traditiona­l deviled eggs of yore. But a fewsubtle twists elevate them tomust-order status.

Atiny touch of lemon zest provides an initial acidic pop, while a hint of earthy black truffle lingers; a topping of fried capers gives a salty crunch. Wash it all down with an expertlyma­de cocktail like the signature ChamomileO­ld Fashioned or the namesake drink of Templeton rye, Cynar, Punt eMes and bitters.

Two Sisters Bar& Books has quietly become one of the finest neighborho­od bars in town, a throwback with a relaxed vibe. Mix in good drinks and good bar snacks? At the end of a long day, that is an experience I covet.

 ?? Natalie Eidelman and Cody Gantz / C+N Creative ??
Natalie Eidelman and Cody Gantz / C+N Creative

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