San Francisco Chronicle

Former art gallery is overflowin­g with style

- By Carey Sweet

Wine Guerrilla owner Bruce Patch made a very lucky score when he came across the space that is now his tasting room in Forestvill­e. The building was formerly an art gallery, and it sings with style, from natural cork floors to polished, strawberry blond built-in furniture, as well as a curving, stacked half-wall hallway leading to a landscaped garden out back.

As soon as the gallery owner retired in 2013, Patch pounced, made only the slightest logistical revisions, and opened his own showpiece last August. Now, lined with glittering wine bottles, the space still acts as an art salon, featuring oversize prints of Wine Guerrilla labels.

The wines take an art form themselves, with Patch using a diverse palette of often rare grapes. Front and center is the area’s renowned Zinfandel, but this also is the only place around to explore an array of imaginativ­e field blends in obscure varietals such as Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, Palomino and Chasselas Dore. The vibe: Tiny, rural Forestvill­e disappears as soon as you step into the shop, eclipsed by chic structure and walls lined with the oversized renditions of Wine Guerrilla’s labels. An Adel’s Vineyard Zinfandel print shows a milky white nymph musing under the moonlight in a dark forest, while another, the label for the signature Rebel Cru blend, depicts a band of fanciful “guerrilla” soldiers in a mystical garden.

The experience: Let’s not take things painfully seriously when enjoying the finer things that are art and wine — Patch doesn’t. He makes all his wines himself, from grapes he sources across the Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander valleys. It’s a meticulous process, he says, but essentiall­y, if he likes a grape he makes it into wine, offering some 24 different labels and focusing on flavor rather than a stuffy story. The team: Patch moved to Forestvill­e 17 years ago following a career in the music industry. After studying winemaking with his friend and Dry Creek winemaker David Coffaro, he began producing Wine Guerrilla wines at Coffaro’s winery in 2004.

The wines: This is a great place for large groups of friends to gather, given the open, airy flow of the tasting room, the spacious garden, and the sheer choice among wines. Everyone will find a favorite, be it the seven different Zinfandels including from 100-plus-year-old vines (all $40), or the 100 percent Alicante Bouchet from Clopton Vineyard in the Russian River Valley ($50).

The $10 fee (refundable with purchase) covers anything Patch has open on a given day; on a recent visit, that included eight wines. Purchases can include bragging rights, too, since production ranges from just 50 to 300 cases. The extras: Pick up lunch and enjoy it on the patio. Forestvill­e is a wealth of great sources for lunch a few steps away, including Canneti Roadhouse Italiana, Twist Eatery, Backyard and Nightingal­e Breads.

 ?? Photos by Carey Sweet / Special to The Chronicle ?? Formerly an art gallery, the tasting room features cork flooring and strawberry blond furniture.
Photos by Carey Sweet / Special to The Chronicle Formerly an art gallery, the tasting room features cork flooring and strawberry blond furniture.
 ??  ?? Wine Guerrilla’s patio area is the perfect place to enjoy lunch picked up at one of many Forestvill­e restaurant­s.
Wine Guerrilla’s patio area is the perfect place to enjoy lunch picked up at one of many Forestvill­e restaurant­s.
 ??  ?? Winery owner Bruce Patch draws on a diverse selection of often rare grapes.
Winery owner Bruce Patch draws on a diverse selection of often rare grapes.

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