San Francisco Chronicle

Piña coladas in the fog

Rooftop bar sets a tropical mood even when the weather refuses to cooperate

- By Lou Bustamante Lou Bustamante is a San Francisco freelance writer. E-mail: wine@sfchronicl­e.com

Let’s be honest: There are precious few days in San Francisco that justify hanging out on a rooftop drinking tropical cocktails. Even in the Mission, ordering a piña colada at El Techo may feel more symbolic than functional.

But those rare times of balmy opportunit­y are precisely what the rooftop bar, five stories above sister restaurant Lolinda, is intended for.

El Techo’s piña colada is a refined variation of the classic, with a few simple tweaks to revitalize what’s typically a summer blender drink.

A combinatio­n of aged rums from Trinidad, Jamaica and Guyana replaces the traditiona­l Puerto Rican white rum. The rum blend gives the drink darksugar depth and richness. A squeeze of lime brightens it, as does cutting the sweetened coconut cream with coconut milk. Scaling back the pineapple juice helps to concentrat­e the flavors.

The secret to El Techo is that the bar is open year round. I’m not sure whether it’s a defiant nature or some Pavlovian tic, but I — and judging from the crowd, a lot of other San Franciscan­s — find something satisfying about sitting on the roof surrounded by fog, drinking tropical drinks. In the chill, the toasty coconut is a direct line to a warmer state of mind.

It also helps that the bar is fortified with heat lamps, roof and retractabl­e plastic walls. Those, and a piña colada complete with a little umbrella to ward off the damp, somehow manage to contain even the foulest of Karl the Fog’s moods.

 ?? Jessica Christian / The Chronicle ?? Joey Sellers enjoys a drink with Cara McCormick at El Techo de Lolinda rooftop bar, which is quite satisfying in fog as well as sun.
Jessica Christian / The Chronicle Joey Sellers enjoys a drink with Cara McCormick at El Techo de Lolinda rooftop bar, which is quite satisfying in fog as well as sun.
 ?? Jessica Christian / The Chronicle ?? Crystal Giorgi grabs a pitcher of sangria from the bar for customers at the casual El Techo de Lolinda rooftop bar, above Lolinda restaurant in the Mission District.
Jessica Christian / The Chronicle Crystal Giorgi grabs a pitcher of sangria from the bar for customers at the casual El Techo de Lolinda rooftop bar, above Lolinda restaurant in the Mission District.
 ?? Daniel E. Porter / The Chronicle ??
Daniel E. Porter / The Chronicle

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