San Francisco Chronicle

Viridis Aquaponics: Circle of life goes from fish to farm to school to table.

- By Mark C. Anderson Mark C. Anderson is a journalist in Seaside, and is Monterey County Weekly’s managing editor. E-mail: mark@mcweekly.com Twitter:@monterey MCA.

The coolest farm between San Francisco and Santa Barbara doesn’t use dirt.

Although surrounded by convention­al farms, Viridis Aquaponic Growers sets up in a massive Watson ville greenhouse just over the border from Monterey County. Catfish, yellow sun fish, sturgeon and koi swirl in different 600-gallon plastic barrels. Amodest sump pump, drawing the only power a basic system needs, swirls their waste to the top of the tank, where it’s fed to another barrel with snails, beetles, water bugs and zooplankto­n.

Gravity pushes the nitrate rich water into a floating charcoal bed growing vegetables— beets, green onions, carrots and radishes— then flows beneath rafts of spicy water cress and veiny Thai basil. Then the water, its nutrients exhausted, runs back into the big fish tank.

In simple terms, the fish feed the plants, which clean the water, which irrigates lush produce. The lettuce and bok choy are so robust that one restaurant buyer says its diners “don’t need to (otherwise) hydrate.”

Ultimately the fish will go to market, too, and sturgeon caviar could offer another revenue stream. The outputs are all certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers— even cleaner, farm staff says, because anything impure would harm the fish.

The systems are productive — earlier this summer Viridis was harvesting 5,000 heads of lettuce a day while using as little as 2 percent of the area’s water and no pesticides or fertilizer­s.

It can seem futuristic, but more than anything it’s simple. Self-made scientist Jon Parr of Monterey designed the original system.

“The deeper you go,” he says, “the more connected it becomes.”

Viridis began when Parr met Drew Hopkins at a barbecue in Santa Cruz. Hopkins was looking to change his life after the death of his teenage son, Hadyn K. “Huk” Hopkins, a daredevil Olympian-to-be who hit a bump snowmobili­ng at 100 mph and smashed into a tree. Hopkins went looking for how hewould go on.

“I had a consciousn­ess only peoplewho have had a loss like that understand,” he says. “New things became very important.”

He had been running resorts, but became more interested in feeding people and started studying high-performanc­e agricultur­e.

Parr didn’t necessaril­y want a partner— he just wanted to grow food at home. “The whole reason you have a garden is so you don’t have to go to the store,” he says. “You grab a tomato while you’re walking into your home. You’re selfsuffic­ient.”

A self-described “sponge for informatio­n,” Parr began Internet research binges that taught him somuch that he’s nowthe teacher, speaking regularly with groups like the Aquaponics Associatio­n Conference and the San Francisco Home and Garden Show.

“I encourage natural components, diversity,” he says. “If you have a hiccup or flaw or toxicity, you find out what in nature handles that and encourage it.”

By the time he met Hopkins, he had a slick system. Hopkins offered financial and connection-making capital. A business plan sprouted in May 2013, aiming to harvest 800,000 heads of lettuce amonth. Additional investors came amonth later (and are still coming). Viridis acquired Obertello Nursery for about $2.4 million last summer.

Adozen destinatio­ns like Tarpy’s Road house Grill, Portola Hotel, Rio Grill, Rocky Point Restaurant and Alvarado Street Brewing Co. use Viridis redvein sorrel, curly water cress and red-oak lettuce, often delivered live-root so they can be harvested to order.

The cumulative effect feels like a fundamenta­l part of farming’s future. As of late, cofounders Parr and Hopkins are approachin­g that from different directions.

Parr has left Viridis to go fully nonprofit and in the direction of schools with his educationa­l creation, School Grown, partnering with several area high schools to install 1,800square-foot greenhouse systems to supply 50weekly community-supported agricultur­e subscripti­ons. Science classes, the Future Farmers of America and business classes will all participat­e.

His ultimate goal is to reach 100,000 schools. He has completed a basic computer-assisted-design drawing that requires little more than clear plastic paneling, local lumber, a community weekend build-out and the help of a handyman.

“When I play this thing out,” Parr says, “we involve local high schools— a dozen, then 100 to 1,000. Every local community that throws up a dozen or three dozen has the city’s food supply. Iwas amazed howmuch our farm produces. When it catches on, I think it will spread like wildfire.”

Hopkins might be even more ambitious, and steering toward other educationa­l places.

Viridis already furnishes produce for Cal State Chico and UC Santa Cruz— which serves asmany as 25,000 meals a day at 14 service points by itself— and so impressed the university that campus officials have integrated Viridis into a proposal for the UC system wide Global Food Initiative.

“Viridis is a perfectmat­ch for operations,” says UC Santa Cruz Dining Director Steve Berlin, who serves on an initiative subcommitt­ee, “because they’re the ultimate in sustainabi­lity and purest produce available.”

The current proposal includes launching at least two more Viridis operations in Northern and Southern California to be within 150 miles of UC campuses they serve.

Viridis also enjoys privacypro­tected contracts with a household-name Silicon Valley business with a sizable campus all its own.

Even another privacy-protected partner, which we’ll call an anonymous government space program, has expressed interest in testing aquaponics beyond gravity.

And Viridis hasn’t even started with the caviar.

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 ?? Photos by Sarah Rice / Special to The Chronicle ?? Drew Hopkins, president and co-founder of Viridis Aquaponics, in the aquaponic tomato greenhouse inWatsonvi­lle. The company grows 20,000 tomato plants in this greenhouse.
Photos by Sarah Rice / Special to The Chronicle Drew Hopkins, president and co-founder of Viridis Aquaponics, in the aquaponic tomato greenhouse inWatsonvi­lle. The company grows 20,000 tomato plants in this greenhouse.
 ??  ?? Above left: Specialty cherry tomatoes. Above right: The nursery where they produce transplant­s. Viridis Aquaponics supplies organic produce to restaurant­s, private companies, Cal State Chico and UC Santa Cruz, and has a proposal to expand to other UC...
Above left: Specialty cherry tomatoes. Above right: The nursery where they produce transplant­s. Viridis Aquaponics supplies organic produce to restaurant­s, private companies, Cal State Chico and UC Santa Cruz, and has a proposal to expand to other UC...
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