San Francisco Chronicle

SUNDAY DRIVE

Devil’s Gulch

- — Tom Stienstra

what you’ll see: The payoffs from Devil’s Gluch are a pretty creek where you might see spawning fish, a hidden waterfall and a surprise mountain view. This getaway can rate a 10, and yet few know of it. Many drive right by the trailhead on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Marin County.

Location: Devil’s Gulch is a mile west of the main entrance of Samuel P. Taylor State Park. As you arrive from the east, look for the sign on the right for Devil’s Gulch Horse Camp. You park at a pullout on the left side of Sir Francis Drake. Along Devil’s Gulch Creek, a tributary to Lagunitas Creek, the landscape is a mix of redwoods and riparian woodlands.

Devil’s Gulch: After parking, you walk across Sir Francis Drake to a gated road. It leads a short distance up to a horse camp on the left and then, to your right, down to Devil’s Gulch Creek and a bridge. This stretch of creek is a spawning area for coho salmon and steelhead, and I’ve seen 2-foot, bright red salmon do their thing here, 20 feet away.

Bill’s trail/stairstep Falls: At the bridge, cross the creek and take Bill’s Trail to the left. It’s an easy walk with a gentle climb up the canyon for about 1.5 miles, about 30 minutes by my watch, to a left turn spur trail. It is a short distance from there to Stairstep Falls. The falls went dry for most of the past two years, but have been recharged by 35 inches of rain in 40 days into a stepped cascade of about 35 feet from top to bottom.

Barnabe peak: From Stairstep Falls, return to Bill’s Trail, and turn left. It climbs about 1,200 feet, with switchback­s at the steepest slope, and then emerges above the woodlands to grassland-crowned 1,466-foot Barnabe Peak. You get one of the Bay Area’s best coastal panoramas, yet one that is overlooked by many. You can return on a fire road. 6-mile loop, moderate-plus.

Dogs: No dogs are allowed on Bill’s Trail to Stairstep Falls or Barnabe Peak. Leashed dogs are permitted on paved areas, the picnic area, campground and the Cross-Marin Trail (also known as the “Bike Trail”) at Camp Taylor.

Mountain bikes: No bikes are allowed on Bill’s Trail. But from park headquarte­rs, you can take the Cross-Marin Trail to Jewell Trail, Bolinas Ridge or San Geronimo Ridge (put on your fat tires, it has muddy spots). Excellent. Cost: Parking and access are free for Devil’s Gulch along Sir Francis Drake. The fee is $8 per vehicle at the main entrance station for Samuel P. Taylor State Park. Map/brochure included with entry fee.

Gps maps: Use 8889 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, Lagunitas (then continue 1 mile west to parking on the left on road’s shoulder, access to trailhead on right).

How to get there: From San Francisco, take U.S. 101 over the Golden Gate Bridge and continue 8 miles to the exit for San Anselmo and Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take that exit and go 0.4 of a mile to the merge with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Continue 13.4 miles (past Fairfax) to Samuel P. Taylor State Park (pass by park entrance on left). Continue about 1 mile to the dirt pullout on the left (free parking, directly across from the signed access road for Devil’s Gulch Horse Camp). Park here, walk across Sir Francis Drake, then hike up the road (the horse camp is on the left) to the trailhead on the right for Devil’s Gulch and Bill’s Trail.

Distances: 13 miles from Larkspur, 25 miles from El Cerrito, 29 miles from downtown San Francisco, 39 miles from Pacifica, 46 miles from San Mateo, 50 miles from Concord.

Contacts: Samuel P. Taylor State Park, (415) 488-9897, www.parks.ca.gov.

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