Gaga for gougères
What to serve with that New Year’s Eve Champagne? Gougères, of course — the French hors d’oeuvre made with a light and eggy pâte à choux dough. There’s the classic — and a world of variations. Bay Area bakeries are so very obliging.
— Sarah Fritsche Tartine Bakery: Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s softball-size puffs are flavored with a classic combination of Gruyère, thyme and black pepper. $4 each. 600 Guerrero St., S.F.; (415) 487-2600. www.tar tinebakery.com. B Pâtisserie: Belinda Leong has garnered national attention for her kouign-amann, but don’t overlook the gougère feuilletée made with bacon, scallion and Parmesan. $3.75 each. 2821 California St., S.F.; (415) 4401700. http://bpatisserie.com. Tout Sweet Patisserie: Yigit Pura’s cheerful shop serves up eggy gougères flavored with Gruyère and a hint of thyme and chive. $2.75 each. Macy’s Union Square, third floor, S.F.; (415) 385-1679. www.toutsweetsf.com. Craftsman and Wolves: William Werner opts for smoky cheddar gougères flecked with red chile flakes. $3.50 each. 746 Valencia St., S.F.; (415) 913-7713. www.craftsmanwolves.com. Fournée Bakery: Frank Sally — whose previous gigs include Meadowood and Campton Place — makes a version with chives, thyme and manchego. $1.95 each. 292 Domingo Ave., Berkeley; (510) 549-9434. www.fourneebakery.com. Sweet Adeline Bakeshop: Jennifer Millar features a rotating daily roster of gougères, flavored in familiar and unexpected ways, including Swiss cheese, spicy pepper and rosemary, and even curry. $2.50 each. 3350 Adeline St., Berkeley; (510) 985-7381. http://sweetadeline.bakeshop.com. Thorough Bread and Pastry: San Francisco Baking Institute’s retail outpost keeps things simple with a version made with asiago and chives. $2 for 4 pieces; $4.50 for 12 pieces. 248 Church St., S.F.; (415) 558-0690.
Gluten-free bonus: Cristina Arantes is known for her chocolate-coated shortbread and other confections, but the owner of Kika’s Treats also happens to make a mean pão de queijo. While technically not a gougère, this popular Brazilian cheese bread — made with yucca starch instead of flour — is nearly a ringer. $12/ 12-piece bag. Available only online at http://kikas treats.com and www.goodeggs. com.