San Francisco Chronicle

Modern oasis

MacRostie Estate House blends wine, high design in Westside

- By Paige Porter Fischer

Westside Road winds through some of the most picturesqu­e vineyards in Sonoma, past hillsides that look like green corduroy, ribbed with grapevines producing some of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in California.

The drive — beginning at Wohler Bridge, which crosses the Russian River, for which this valley is named — snakes through tunnels of statuesque oak trees, past weathered barns that beg for photos, and venerable wineries like Rochioli, Gary Farrell and Williams Selyem. But there’s one new driveway along this hallowed back road that demands that you put on the brakes.

The MacRostie Estate House is marked by a sign bearing Scottish thistle — a nod to founder Steve MacRostie’s heritage — and its long, lazy driveway allows guests enough time to take in the architectu­re of Westside Road’s newest winery. It also gives the tasting-room staff enough time to prepare a splash of chilled rosé to greet visitors with before they even get to the front door.

“The idea is to meet guests before they set foot in the winery and give them a taste of something special,” says Don Davis, director of sales and hospitalit­y at MacRostie, which opened the doors of its Estate House in February.

A pair of sycamore trees flanks the glass entrance of the stunning tasting room. From the front door, visitors can see straight through the tasting room to the vineyard terrace, which embraces one of the best views in Sonoma County.

“We really wanted the design of our Estate House to take full advantage of this unique landscape,” says MacRostie, a winemaker who’s been crafting Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for 28 years.

“The one missing element in our business was a space where people could come and experience our wine in a beautiful setting. When this piece of property came on the market, I knew that we simply had to be here.”

The 20-acre property boasts a 13-acre Pinot Noir vineyard he named after his wife, Thale. “I wanted to create an experience for guests here that would be as beautiful as the wines. From the very beginning, I wanted a tasting room that felt like someone’s home, a place where people could come and stay for a while.”

Designed by Gould Evans Architectu­re of San Francisco, the Estate House is a contempora­ry interpreta­tion of the type of buildings that line Westside Road. “The area is full of simple, agrarian structures, and we wanted the winery to be a part of that fabric,” says Douglas Thornley, principal in charge of the Estate House project. “The design merges the domestic scale of a home with the straightfo­rward massing of a farm structure.”

The structure — fashioned from a mix of materials including integral colored concrete flooring, stone tiles, western red cedar siding, abundant glass and simple steel — features a pitched, barn-like roof with exposed Douglas fir beams.

“The design incorporat­es a very simple form — the gabled roof,” says Thornley. “It is an iconic form that represents domesticit­y. By cutting the gable in half and then flipping it so that the eaves touched, we formed a simple ‘butterfly’type roof that lifts up at the entry and vineyard view.”

MacRostie says this dramatic architectu­ral feature is his favorite design element, one that maximizes both the view and the light. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors and windows take in the scenery: rolling hillsides striped with grapevines, and beyond them, a horizon marked by the Mayacamas, Mount St. Helena and Geyser Peak in the distance.

Several outside “rooms” have been designed to give guests alfresco tasting opportunit­ies — from a private spot shaded by ancient oaks to a spacious outdoor patio with a sectional sofa and tables set for private tastings. The landscape designer Roche & Roche worked with Thornley to create multiple outdoor spots for guests — from the plaza beneath the sycamores, defined by elegant curved seating walls, to the custom water features that deliver a peaceful ambience outside the tasting room.

MacRostie hired San Francisco designer Grant K. Gibson to bring his eye for upscale residentia­l design to the commercial property, knowing that the right design details could lend the Estate House warmth that would make guests feel they could stay awhile. “The overall architectu­re of the space is more modern,” says Gibson. “I wanted to soften it by adding in lots of texture — through fabrics,

leathers and different types of wood.”

The indoor living room includes a pair of vintageins­pired leather club chairs, a pale-gray sectional sofa upholstere­d in indoor-outdoor fabric, and wooden stools, all anchored by a three-piece industrial coffee table that can be moved around to accommodat­e different sizes of groups. “Wine is best enjoyed with people, over conversati­on, so this is a nice spot for guests to relax for a little while,” says MacRostie.

Another inviting gathering spot is the communal table in the center of the Estate House, where a pair of custom oak tables is surrounded by Gibson’s modern take on the cam- paign chair: stools upholstere­d in caramel-colored leather that tuck perfectly beneath the tables. “I wanted to deliver a look of sophistica­tion, but make design choices that would be extremely durable and stand up to traffic and use,” says Gibson.

He paired classic wishbone chairs in unfinished oak with custom round, Saarinen-inspired tables, situated throughout the large, open space for semi-private tastings. “Because all of the tastings are seated, we put a lot of thought into each seating area, so that people could feel comfortabl­e doing a tasting for two, or go into a different area for a larger group tasting,” says Gibson.

Beginning in May, the Barrel Hall — behind the Estate House — will offer elevated tasting experience­s for guests, who will be given an inside peek at MacRostie’s approach to winemaking. “I have spent my career in this business trying to make the best wine from the best grapes, sourcing from the finest vineyards,” says MacRostie. “It was always my dream to create a space where people could come to slow down, to take in the scenery and taste the wine and hear a little bit of the MacRostie story. Every wine has its own story, and I think we’ve got a good one to tell.”

 ?? Kathryn MacDonald Photograph­y ?? MacRostie Estate House, designed by Gould Evans Architectu­re in San Francisco, is a contempora­ry interpreta­tion of the agrarian structures that line Westside Road.
Kathryn MacDonald Photograph­y MacRostie Estate House, designed by Gould Evans Architectu­re in San Francisco, is a contempora­ry interpreta­tion of the agrarian structures that line Westside Road.
 ?? Kathryn MacDonald Photograph­y ?? MacRostie Estate House is designed to frame the gorgeous pastoral views of the Russian River Valley.
Kathryn MacDonald Photograph­y MacRostie Estate House is designed to frame the gorgeous pastoral views of the Russian River Valley.

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