San Francisco Chronicle

Birds’ paradise a playground for outdoor adventurer­s

- By Carey Sweet

T he birds needed a voice, and Elsie B. Roemer stepped in, speaking up for the thousands of beautiful creatures that fed, nested and raised their young on a marshland at Crown Memorial State Beach in Alameda.

As one of the few remaining salt wetlands on the San Francisco Bay, the ecosystem was extremely valuable as a critical habitat for endangered species like the California clapper rail, plus crabs, fish and plants.

Yet by the 1970s, it was being eyed for developmen­t, hot on the tail of a 1950s project when the marshes and mudflats of southern Alameda were filled in to create pads for residentia­l and commercial buildings.

For decades, Roemer, an Alameda resident since 1892, had studied the area and its avian residents, and she gently but firmly demanded the land be protected, finally convincing the East Bay Regional Park District to set aside the mashes as a sanctuary. In 1979, the project was named in her honor.

Today, the east end of the sanctuary is closed to the public during ongoing restoratio­n work, but as visitors hike the beach, park and surroundin­g wetlands, they admire graceful snowy egrets, great blue herons, willets, American avocets, marbled godwits, brown pelicans, dowitchers, California gulls, Western sandpipers, greater yellowlegs, double-crested cormorants, song sparrows and marsh wrens. California clapper rails now happily strut their olive brown-cinnamon buff-white striped selves in this area that is nearly their exclusive habitat in the world.

It’s a remarkable transforma­tion for a stretch of land that started out in the 1880s as the largest beach on the San Francisco Bay.

From 1917 to 1939, the plot on the southweste­rn edge was known as the Neptune Beach amusement park. Known as the “Coney Island of the West,” the park hosted bathing beauty contests, concerts, hot air balloon voyages, carnival rides, prizefight­s and other gaiety.

While there are still plenty of recreation­al diversions to be enjoyed here, the focus is now on the ecosystem, including Crab Cove, establishe­d at the park’s north end as a marine reserve protecting plant and animal life, plus dedicated efforts toward sustainabl­e upkeep.

Operated by the Park District under a cooperativ­e agreement with the state of California and the city of Alameda, Crown Beach underwent a $5.7 million restoratio­n in 2013, with 82,600 cubic yards of sand laid in to fix natural erosion on sections of the partially man-made 2.5-mile beach and its dunes. It was a fix to an earlier prop-up of the engineered beach done in the 1980s, using a heavy-grained sand from Bay Area mining operations. At the same time, rock barricades were built to help protect the wildlife sanctuarie­s.

PLAYGROUND FOR OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST­S

Abutting the baseball and soccer fields, basketball and tennis courts of adjacent Washington Park, the property now boasts one of the area’s richest playground­s for windsurfer­s, kite boarders, fishing, kayaking, and swimming yearround. Naturalist-guided tours explore the nooks and crannies, picnickers sprawl on the lawns with their leashed dogs, bikers traverse the beachfront trails, and each June, crowds converge to celebrate the annual Sand Castle and Sand Sculpture Contest, held in front of the bathhouse on a low-tide Saturday morning.

This 4th of July, the Crab Cove Visitor Center will host its 35th anniversar­y with free, familyfrie­ndly activities throughout the day, followed through the summer with musical concerts plus events exploring “Butterflie­s and Bugs,” “Seaweed Science” and discoverie­s of pond dwellers like bird life, turtles and dragonflie­s.

Through all the restoratio­n efforts, Crown Beach is now the most heavily used swimming beach in the San Francisco Bay. And it’s not just tourists that find the island destinatio­n fascinatin­g.

“Crown Memorial should be a whole day’s adventure in its own, since there is so much to explore,” said Michael Schiess, who founded the Pacific Pinball Museum more than a decade ago on Webster Street in downtown. “But if time is limited, a trip to the Crab Cove Visitors center will give you a quick, rich historical background about Neptune Beach and some of the natural science of Alameda’s waterways and wetlands.”

For Kate Pryor, an Alameda native who owns the landmark 74- year-old Tucker’s Super Creamed Ice Cream on Park Street, the beach is one of the highlights of what she calls “this very special small town surrounded by water.”

She often visits, and brings visitors, to enjoy “great water sports, marinas, youth sailing programs, soccer, baseball, and softball for all ages.”

On any given day, the beach hums with happy activity, as locals stroll the sandy shoreline and dip their toes in the gentle waves.

The park’s paved trail runs parallel to Shoreline Drive, and bustles with dog walkers, parents pushing strollers, and cyclists accompanie­d by the occasional honking geese that call the area home. Dunes ripple with buckwheat, fuchsia, gum plant, sages, rockrose, primrose, and deep purple California lilac shrubs, dotted with squirrel burrows.

Toward the end of the path, visitors can pause on an elevated overlook, peeking into the marsh, with more views sweeping across the water to San Francisco and San Bruno Mountain.

The birds that Roemer so loved nestle in the aquatic grasses, feed, and raise their young.

For them, this is now their own personal amusement park, a Neptune Beach designed for wildlife.

 ?? PHOTOS BY SARAH RICE / SPECIAL TO THE CHRONICLE ?? A child runs at Crown Memorial State Beach, a restored marshland in Alameda. From 1917 to 1939 on the same stretch of land was Neptune Beach amusement park that featured concerts and carnival rides.
PHOTOS BY SARAH RICE / SPECIAL TO THE CHRONICLE A child runs at Crown Memorial State Beach, a restored marshland in Alameda. From 1917 to 1939 on the same stretch of land was Neptune Beach amusement park that featured concerts and carnival rides.
 ??  ?? David Gadarian, an instructor with Board Sports California, adjusts a sail before a class. Other popular activities include fishing, kayaking and swimming.
David Gadarian, an instructor with Board Sports California, adjusts a sail before a class. Other popular activities include fishing, kayaking and swimming.

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