French Laundry
This year Thomas Keller is starting a new chapter at his 21-year-old restaurant. He tore down several buildings, and built a replica of the old kitchen in shipping containers to serve as a temporary home while building a permanent kitchen that will be like no other. He gave the international firm Snohetta the challenge of creating a structure inspired by the glass pyramid of the Louvre, to contrast with the elegant dining room that is in a century-old stone building. The new kitchen is scheduled to premiere in November, but in the meantime, chef David Breeden continues to turn out some of the country’s best food on the nine-plus course menu. The expansive garden across the street inspires the nightly changing menu, and no ingredient is repeated. Keller continues to evolve and push the envelope. With Per Se in New York, he is the only American chef to have Michelin three-star restaurants on both coasts. Both are wonderful, and both capture a sense of place.
Cuisine: American (contemporary)
Specialties: Menu changes nightly, but signature dishes include Oyster and Pearls (pearl tapioca with oysters and caviar); cornets of salmon tartare; Coffee and Doughnuts (espresso mousse and doughnuts). Seats: 62; private room for 12
Prices: $295 (fixed price, includes service)
Noise rating: AA
Parking: Free lot, street
Vitals: 6640 Washington St. (near Creek Street), Yountville; (707) 944-2380. www.frenchlaundry.com. Lunch Friday-Sunday; dinner nightly. Beer and wine. Reservations accepted two months in advance. Credit cards accepted.