Liholiho Yacht Club

Ravi Kapur, who grew up in Hawaii and was at the top of the career ladder as the chef at Prospect, found his true voice by opening a restaurant that honored his heritage. Hawaii isn’t considered a hotbed of great food, but Kapur is a great chef, and using his Northern California sensibility, he’s created a playful restaurant with serious intent. The long, narrow space has a personal feel, symbolized by the black-andwhite photo of his mother taken in 1975 that dominates the back bar. It embodies the aloha spirit that’s evident at each turn, including when waiters present napkins individually to each guest. Partners Jeff Hanak and Allyson Jossel, who also own Nopa and Nopalito, give polish to the wine list and service. For his part, Kapur riffs on the cuisine with such dishes as clams in coconut curry sauce with fresh turmeric and fava leaves; and tuna belly fillet in a pool of tempura dipping sauce, topped with julienned Fuji apples. Cuisine: Hawaiian Specialties: Beef tongue with house-made kimchi in a poppy seed steamed bun; country pork steak

with charred cabbage; fried Cornish hen with ca

shews and tamari glaze; baked Hawaii with roasted

pineapple ice cream.

Seats: 55 (plus 15 at the bar; 10 at communal table) Prices: Shared plates: $24.75-$34.50 (plus 4% S.F. surcharge)

Noise rating:

Parking: Street, difficult

/ Vitals: 871 Sutter St. (near Leavenworth), San Francisco; (415) 440-5446. www.liholihoyachtclub.

com. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Limited

reservations. Credit cards accepted.