A vintage-inspired beach weekend.
There’s a moment on every vacation when you begin the serious attempt to blend in, to do as the locals do. You don’t want to be seen as a tourist. You want to pretend you live in this wonderful world you’ve traveled to — at least for a little while.
When you’re visiting Santa Cruz, it means you trade your Tory Burch flats for Rainbow flip-flops. It means a simple cotton hoodie is your only accessory other than a pair of good sunglasses. Your primary goal here is to chill out, and to look natural doing so.
The truth is, Santa Cruz locals are almost too cool to be copied. But you can easily get a taste of their lifestyle. Surf City, where mainland surfing was popularized and an entire culture developed around the sport, has such a low-key vibe that it’s almost impossible not to unwind here. The best way to live this laid-back life is with a vintage beach vacation — with stops at all the places that feel intrinsically part of the local culture.
Friday afternoon
Check in: With the most coveted address of any hotel in Santa Cruz — right on the beach, adjacent to the wharf and Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk — the Dream Inn hotel has been reimagined by Joie de Vivre as a hip, surfer-chic hotel. The much-needed renovation restored the historic hotel to its former glory, making the rooms live up to their perfect location. The new look is upscale but casual, with bright colors, funky art and modern furnishings delivering a don’t-worry-be-happy feeling. If you aren’t set on staying right by the pool, which is a sweet spot for families, ask for a tower room, with day and night postcard-worthy views from the spacious balconies. But you really can’t go wrong here, as all rooms face Monterey Bay and boast amazing views of the water, the wharf and the boardwalk. 175 W. Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz; (831) 4605012. Rooms start at $339.
Cocktail hour: You don’t have
to go far. Kick back at the Dream Inn’s Jack O’Neill Lounge. The hotel actually sits in the exact location of the first O’Neill surf shop, and the mural outside the front door tells the life story of the inventor of the wet suit. The lounge, a collaboration of O’Neill and the hotel, is full of the marine advocate’s memorabilia. Surfboards line the ceiling, and floor-to-ceiling windows face this famous beach. Try a signature cocktail, such as the Buccaneer O’Neill. Then head next door to Aquarius, where the view is the evening’s entertainment. Don’t miss the calamari with chickpeas or the sea scallops. If you’re feeling decadent, do as the locals do and order the house fish and chips with tartar sauce. 175 W. Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz; (831) 460-5012. Sweet ending: End the night with a scoop of ice cream from Marianne’s, the ice cream shop that’s been keeping Santa Cruz on a sugar high for more than 50 years. 1020 Ocean St., Santa Cruz. (831) 458-1447.
Saturday
Rise and shine: Take a cool morning walk along West Cliff Drive. A scenic 2½-mile path leads along the coastline to Natural Bridges State Beach. Along the way, you’ll pass Steamer Lane, one of the most famous surf spots in California, where the best of the best conquer the swells. You’ll also pass by the famous bronze surfing statue, which depicts a surfer and his long board, commissioned in 1992 and inspired by members of the Santa Cruz Surfing Club, which dates to 1936. History lesson: Farther along the path is the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, housed in the Mark Abbott Memorial Lighthouse, which gives visitors a quick education on the history of the sport, from the evolution of gear to the frightening details of shark attacks. But the best way to witness this locally beloved sport is to join the spectators along the cliff-side railings and watch the water below, where a daily show plays out in dramatic fashion for anyone who wants to see. (And if you’re inspired, you can take a surfing lesson right on the beach in front of the Dream Inn; Cowell’s Beach is a great beginner surf spot.) 701 West Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz; (831) 420-6289.
Fuel up: Now that you’ve worked up an appetite, head over to the locals’ favorite, Zachary’s, a breakfast institution on Pacific Avenue. Popular since it opened in 1985, Zachary’s features an “everything homemade” menu that somehow makes you feel a little better about overindulging in portions fit for Olympic swimmers. Regulars order Mike’s Mess — three eggs, bacon, mushrooms and the restaurant’s incomparable home fries, all mixed together and topped with cheese, sour cream, tomatoes and green onions. The sourdough pancakes here aren’t to be missed — the starter is said to have been in existence since the Alaskan Gold Rush. 819 Pacific Ave, Santa Cruz; (831) 427-0646. www.zacharyssantacruz.com. Walk the mall: With your engine fueled, wander up Pacific Avenue, the main artery of town — what many still call the Mall. The Pacific Garden Mall opened in 1969 as an urban oasis, with ample seating that encouraged shop-
pers to sit, visit and stay awhile. It was Santa Cruz’s curvaceous version of a town square, and it transformed the city. And then came the Loma Prieta earthquake of 1989, which ravaged the mall and led to its eventual reinvention.
The Pacific Avenue shopping corridor has managed to hold onto its local vibe, despite a few chains slipping into its lineup of stores. Be sure to check out Berdels, a men’s clothing and skate shop that features mostly local brands and artists that are tough to find elsewhere. And
Santa Cruz Bookshop has been running strong since it opened in 1966.
Berdels, 1233 Pacific Ave., (949) 759-5439; Santa Cruz Bookshop, 520 Pacific Ave.; (831) 423-0900.
Lounge by the water: Head back to the hotel to lounge for a little bit. Hang by the pool or mosey down to the beach. It’s all at your doorstep. After you’ve rested up, and the sun drops a little lower in the sky, it’s time for the main attraction.
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk: This is Americana, West Coast style. To stroll through the dark arcade and into the light of the historic boardwalk is the quintessential Santa Cruz experience. And it’s admission-free. You pay only for the rides.
Your first stop should be Marini’s for a taste of the famous salt-water taffy — and if you’ve got someone to share it with, a Marini’s caramel apple. Four generations of candymakers have kept this place a local favorite since 1915.
Get in line for some tickets, because you’ll want to ride the Giant
Dipper, which just celebrated its 90th birthday. The candy-cane-colored wooden roller coaster opened in 1924 and is the star of the Santa Cruz skyline. But don’t miss the boardwalk’s oldest ride: the hand-carved
Looff Carousel, built in 1911, a favorite of children as well as adults, who still get a thrill from tossing steel rings into a clown’s mouth. The carousel is one of only a few in the world that still boast a working ring dispenser. 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz; (831) 423-5590. www.beachboardwalk.com
Stroll the wharf: When you’ve had enough kettle corn, walk over to the wharf. It may be full of tourist stops, but there are a few fun gems, like
Riva Fish House. Everyone comes here for the calamari and a hearty bowl of their signature clam chowder. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a seat by the window for a view of the sea life — sea otters, sea lions and yes, the omnipresent surfers. 31 Municipal Wharf, Santa Cruz, (831) 429-1223 www.riva fishhouse.com
Sunday
Rise and dine: The next morning, explore Capitola Village, the West Coast’s oldest seaside resort town. Start with a pit stop at Gayle’s Bakery, where patrons take a number upon entering the door and patiently wait in line to order the famous pastries made here. Opened in 1978, this bakery is the gathering spot of this seaside village, a must-see for in-theknow travelers. Dive into a strawberry-rhubarb muffin or the croissant d’amande. 504 Bay Ave., Capitola; (831) 462-1200. www.gaylesbakery.com
Relax in Capitola: A short walk away is the old village, with adorable bungalows, charming shops and street cafes that spill onto Capitola Beach. Thought to be the oldest beach resort on the West Coast, Capitola has a large, sandy beach that makes a great spot for a picnic or people watching. Don’t miss a photo op by the multicolored, beachfront
Venetian condominiums, said to be the first seaside condos built in California. They’re the Capitola version of San Francisco’s Painted Ladies. If you’re feeling adventuresome, take a walk on the wharf and rent a standup paddleboard for the afternoon. Dine at a classic: Wind down the weekend at Shadowbrook Restaurant, one of the area’s most beloved restaurants, built into a hillside overlooking Soquel Creek. You can choose to walk down 100 or more stairs, through the immaculately designed gardens blanketed with ferns and laced with waterfalls, or take a vintage cable car down the hill to the restaurant’s front door. In operation since 1947, this restaurant feels like a scene out of a storybook — a tree house of sorts, with romantic rooms and patios for enjoying the cuisine. If you’re still full from lunch, just grab appetizers and a cocktail at the beautiful bar in the casual Rock Room. If you’re hungry, you can’t go wrong with the house specialty: prime rib. But don’t miss out on this architectural gem, where the locals go to mark special occasions. 1750 Wharf Road, Capitola; (831) 475-1511. www.shadowbrook-capitola.com. Dinner nightly.