San Francisco Chronicle

Slow-Broiled Salmon With Tomato Brown Sugar Glaze

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I’m asked for my Jewish holiday brisket recipe a few times a year. People assume that because I’m a profession­al chef, I surely have some secret for making such a tender cut of meat with a delicious, balanced sauce. In truth, I do avoid passing the recipe out. But it’s not because I’m hoarding some decades-old family recipe, but rather because I’m mortified. When I finally do hand it over, I sheepishly admit that the “secret” is Lipton onion soup mix, Campbell’s tomato juice and brown sugar, and maybe some ketchup and Worcesters­hire sauce, too. But what makes the meat so tender is the fact that I cook it low and slow, and then do a second cook the next day, once it has been sliced. Not exactly the ideal scenario for a quick weeknight recipe. This year, I decided to try similar flavors on salmon, which will cook through in less than 20 minutes and won’t be overpowere­d by the other ingredient­s. The sweet ingredient­s in this sauce form a caramelize­d glaze as the fish cooks, allowing me to spend more time on side dishes — you know, like my Kellogg’s cornflake-topped noodle kugel.

To make the fish, place the oven rack on the lowest shelf of the oven, and preheat the oven to broil. In a small saucepan, bring ½ cup tomato puree, 2 teaspoons Worcesters­hire sauce and 3 tablespoon­s brown sugar to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly; then set aside. Cover a baking sheet with aluminum foil, and scatter 1 large, thinly sliced onion over the bottom of the pan. Drizzle about 2 tablespoon­s olive oil over the onions and season with kosher salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Place salmon on top of the onions. (The amount of salmon doesn’t matter as long as it fits in the pan without crowding, and you can use fillets or one large piece.) Season the fish well with kosher salt and pepper, and then spread the glaze over the top and sides of the fish. Place the pan on the low rack of the oven, and cook for 15-18 minutes, until the fish is cooked through to your liking and the top is caramelize­d. Stir the onions once or twice throughout cooking to prevent them from burning, although a few crispy onion pieces don’t hurt. Serve warm.

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