San Francisco Chronicle

Classic American Potato Salad

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Serves 8 to 10

From “The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science,” by J. Kenji López-Alt (W.W. Norton & Co., Inc., 2015, 958 pages). Adding vinegar to the cooking water helps potatoes keep their shape because acidity in the water prevents their pectin from breaking down. Sprinkling the potatoes with a bit more vinegar right out of the pot gives them deeper seasoning, since they absorb flavor best when hot. Russets are the best choice for this salad. 4 pounds russet (baking) potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch cubes Kosher salt ¼ cup sugar 6 tablespoon­s rice wine

vinegar 3 stalks celery, finely diced

(about 1 cup) 1 medium red onion, finely

diced (about ½ cup) 4 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced (about ½ cup; optional) ¼ cup fresh parsley leaves,

minced (optional) ¼ cup chopped cornichons 2 tablespoon­s whole-grain

mustard, or to taste 1¼ cups mayonnaise, preferably homemade (see recipe) Freshly ground black pepper

Instructio­ns: Put 2 quarts water in a large saucepan, add the potatoes, 2 tablespoon­s salt, 2 tablespoon­s of the sugar and 2 tablespoon­s of the vinegar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until the potatoes are completely tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes and transfer them to a rimmed baking sheet. Spread into an even layer, then sprinkle with 2 more tablespoon­s of the vinegar. Allow to cool to room temperatur­e, about 30 minutes.

Combine the remaining 2 tablespoon­s sugar, the remaining 2 tablespoon­s vinegar, the celery, onion, scallions (if using), parsley (if using), cornichons, mustard and mayonnaise in a large bowl. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Fold in the potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and let rest in the refrigerat­or for at least 1 hour, and up to 3 days, before serving.

Per serving: 256 calories, 10 g fat (2 g saturated), 8 mg cholestero­l, 420 mg sodium, 43 g carbohydra­tes, 5 g fiber, 4 g protein.

 ?? Russell Yip / The Chronicle ??
Russell Yip / The Chronicle

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