The Insider: Cy Yontz
At home, Cy Yontz’s wife, Inge, and four kids do the restaurant dessert baking (the olallieberry pie and caramel corn cheesecake, which appear on the Rio menu, are incredible). When the family goes out, they attempt to steer him to his own restaurant because they’ve developed a palate for dishes such as pumpkin seed-crusted salmon and monkey bread French toast with bruleed bananas and Baker’s bacon. When that doesn’t happen, here are some of their other haunts: Akaoni: The tiny cult hit doesn’t post a menu out front or even a sign. Not that using the menu is recommended inside, where owner-chef Shinichi Yamada prepares exacting and authentic fish with intensity. “He’s awesome,” Yontz says. “Don’t order. Tell him to just ‘Go.’ ” And don’t put any soy sauce on anything. Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi has nothing on Yamada. Hours vary. Sixth Avenue and Mission Street, Carmel, (831) 620-1516.
Compagno’s Market and Deli: The place should get the credit for the cliche “enough food to feed an army.” Given the platoon of salads (like the bacon-broccoli-grape), chips (Louisiana seafood-flavored Crawtators), desserts (double fudge Reese’s cake) and massive deli sandwiches (the No. 27 breaded-chicken-avocado-bacon), Defense Language Institute students stationed a grenade’s throw away tend to amass here as if they were ordered. Yontz takes aim at the Super Hoagie, with salami, ham and mortadella, and the niche sodas and craft beers. 9 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. 2000 Prescott Ave., Monterey, (831) 375-5987. www.compagnos.com.
Gold Coast Tattoo: Chef likes to pop into the next-door British Bulldog, what he calls the “classic old-school neighborhood bar,” for a black-and-tan, then head over to the place where he gets his ink done. Which makes sense, given the fact that it’s a mellow, spacious place to hang out in and plan the next piece with his go-to guy, Jason Quijano. Q’s Japanese-Polynesian style plays well with Yontz’s artistic tendencies. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. 639 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey, (831) 6429404. www.goldcoasttattoo.com. Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca: It hosted thousands of die-hard gear grinders for the recent Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion, but that’s not why the Yontzes roll out. They want a two-wheel fix and got it at the latest motorcycle race, when Yontz was there with his older kids at the finish line for the World Superbike in July. 1021 Monterey-Salinas Highway (Highway 68), (831) 242-8200. www.mazdaraceway.com.
Mundaka: Often the liveliest restaurant in the area, particularly when paired with sister spot Barmel next door — and its drinks, DJs and excellent food from a shared kitchen. At Mundaka, a porrón filled with a well-chosen wine and ample tapas like the foraged mushroom and egg, croquetas, papas bravas and tender grilled octopus fuel the vibe. “You can order all of the tapas,” Yontz says. He admits an affinity for the “bomba” — chorizo caked in mashed potato, then breaded and fried — and Iberico ham. 5-10 p.m. daily. San Carlos Street between Seventh and Ocean avenues, (831) 624-7400. www.mundakacarmel.com. Talbott Tasting Room: The man loves motorcycle racing, and this, surprisingly enough, is the best venue besides Laguna Seca (see above) to channel that passion. Robert Talbott has stocked the vaulted-ceiling space with 10 vintage cycles, including a 1960 BMW R26 and a pair of Triumphs. Yontz also loves local wines, particularly what emerges from Talbott’s Sleepy Hollow vineyard in sunny Cachagua. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 6 p.m. Friday-Sunday. 25 Pilot Road, Carmel Valley, (831) 659-3500. www.talbottvineyards.com.