Couple preserve the good life
The old train depot in downtown Winters once marked the end of the line for the railroad that rumbled into Yolo County.
More than a century later, that same historic building served to jumpstart the entrepreneurial dreams of husband and wife, Cole and Sara Ogando.
The couple, who had never worked in a restaurant before, let alone owned one, took a leap of faith to open the Preserve Public House on that Railroad Avenue site in 2011. For Cole, a 35-year-old native of Winters, and Sara, 35, who grew up in Fresno, the gastropub was a natural extension of their passion for great food and timehonored traditions.
“We want to preserve the good life,” says Sara, about their motto.
At Preserve, that philosophy is taken seriously, as evidenced by the glassed-walled curing room, used to make coppa, prosciutto and pancetta, as well as by the shelves of jellies and jams, all made in house. The restaurant even offers classes on pickling and jammaking.
“My grandparents, who still live in town, were very frugal and self-sustaining,” Cole explains. “They had a garden. They made wine. They cured meats. I grew up watching them can all the time.”
It was his grandparents’ recipe for jalapeno jelly that made it onto the menu first. Today, it still remains a favorite, with people buying 20 jars at a time to give as holiday gifts.
Ordering a cheese or charcuterie board is a popular way to experience the different preserves, including apricot-lavender butter, Meyer lemon jelly, and strawberry-fig jam. It’s also a perfect accompaniment to one of the 21 local beers on tap.
The spirit of preserving extends to the restaurant’s decor. The couple, and their extended family, who work in construction, did all the renovations themselves on what was formerly a pub, and flooring and carpet store.
The furniture bases in the dining room were fashioned from scrap wood reclaimed from a dismantled old barn. Dozens of old cameras that once belonged to Cole’s grandfather serve as art in a glass case. The striking horseshoe-shaped bar resembles a giant wine barrel, thanks to the old staves lining it that came from Turkovich Family Wines, which has a tasting room just steps away.
Many restaurateurs may dream of opening a place in San Francisco. But not the Ogandos.
“You can’t just pick this up and move it to San Francisco,” Cole says. “It wouldn’t be as natural or feel the same. This is home.” Preserve Public House, 200 Railroad Ave., Winters, (530) 795-9963. www.pre servepublichouse.com.