Into the woods in Occidental
Traveling to Occidental along the Bohemian Highway reveals trees displaying amber-and cranberry-hued foliage, ferns edging majestic redwoods, and bucolic landscapes. Founded in 1876 and ensconced in a forested valley in Sonoma County, this small community evolved around the timber industry and the railroad.
It all started when William “Dutch Bill” Howard — actually a Danish sailor named Christopher T. Folkmann — arrived here by way of San Francisco. Once settled, he granted the North Pacific Coast Railroad a right-of-way through his land. This narrow-gauge steam railway provided a vital connection to San Francisco. In addition to transporting wood from lumber mills and agricultural products from local farms, it also brought tourists. Today, the depot and railroad are gone, but Occidental’s historical character and welcoming nature remain.
If you arrive in the morning, head to the Howard Station Cafe for Taylor Maid Farms coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice and American breakfast fare, including organic eggs, grilled potatoes, buttermilk biscuits, huevos rancheros and banana-walnut pancakes.
A wander along Main Street leads to a mix of specialty shops in converted 19th century abodes. These include Boho Bungalow, a home decor and gift boutique where new and vintage finds such as beaded earrings, handwoven bags and furniture evoke a free-spirited aesthetic. At the West County Herb Co. shop, glass jars filled with dried organic, locally grown herbs line the shelves. It also carries other herbal products, all made with highquality ingredients by local artisans.
Dining options in town include two classic Italian restaurants. Family-owned and operated, each serves hearty comfort food, family style or a la carte. At Negri’s Original Occidental Restaurant, open since 1943, start with minestrone and garlic bread. Try Noni’s ravioli, stuffed with beef, pork, Swiss chard and herbs, then topped with Alfredo, Bolognese, marinara or pesto sauce. The Union Hotel Restaurant, dating back to 1879, features a cafe to pop into during the day for house-made pastries and coffee. For dinner, you can treat yourselves to bruschetta, delicious steaks and shrimp fettuccine in the main dining room.
With made-from-scratch pub grub and 13 beers on tap, Barley and Hops Tavern is also a great spot. Here, coldweather eats include French onion soup, slow-simmered with beer-caramelized onions and beef broth, then baked with dry-aged Monterey Jack cheese and crostini. Entrees include a braised beef, Porter and Fig pot roast, slow-cooked and accompanied by sauteed chard and a parsnip puree. Finish it all off with a pint of Shipyard Brewing’s Smashed Pumpkin ale.
Howard Station Cafe, 3611 Bohemian Highway, Occidental. Cash only. (707) 874-2838. www.howardstationcafe.com. Boho Bungalow, 3692 Bohemian Highway, Occidental. (707) 874-6030. www.thebohobungalow.com. West County Herb Co., 3641 Main St., Occidental. (707) 874-9567. www.westcountyherb.com. Negri’s Original Occidental restaurant, 3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental. (707) 874-0301. www.negrisrestaurant.com. Union Hotel Restaurant, 3731 Main St., Occidental. (707) 874-3555. www.unionhoteloccidental.com. Barley and Hops Tavern, 3688 Bohemian Highway, Occidental. (707) 874-9037. www.facebook.com/barleyandhops.