No gold, but Bernal Heights glitters
In Bernal Heights Park, emerald- hued, native grasslands cover Bernal Hill, which affords panoramic vistas of rooftops, the downtown skyline, San Bruno Mountain and more. Here walkers and people with their dogs enjoy a quiet, natural respite away from the bustle of the city along the paved road and trails.
Originally part of the 4,500- acre land grant given to José Cornelio de Bernal, the namesake butte became part of the newly formed Bernal Heights neighborhood in the mid- 19th century. That’s when banker and real estate developer François Louis Alfred Pioche purchased property there and subdivided it into residential lots.
More than two decades after the California Gold Rush, Victor Ressayre caused quite a stir in 1876 by proclaiming that he found gold on the summit. His position as secretary of the Cedar Hill Consolidated Mining and Milling Co. in Virginia City would have given credence to his assertion, but, in the end, the mining efforts yielded only quartz.
The real rush happened after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and fire. Because Bernal Heights is built upon bedrock, it didn’t have extensive damage and attracted residents displaced from devastated areas of the city. During this time, the government constructed more than 5,300 simple wooden cottages to provide shelter for earthquake victims. Located in 26 official refugee camps, the cottages sold for just $ 50, and occupants paid $ 2 per month toward their purchase. Once owned, the homes were relocated out of the camps to neighborhoods, including Bernal Heights, where some still exist, intermingled among the stucco and red tile roofs of Mediterranean- style homes.
Cortland Avenue is the central hub of this community. For some whimsy, stop in at Heartfelt, Darcy Lee’s mirthful shop featuring engaging gifts for children, adults and those who refuse to grow up. Toys, fun games and kits include the Joke Box, complete with a floating eyeball and other gags. Frosted drinking glasses adorned with San Francisco landmarks, ankle socks printed with playful sayings and a squirrel- shaped nut grinder are among the novelty items. For Valentine’s Day, you can even special-order individual tea cups filled with fresh flowers.
Then make a stop at Progressive Grounds, which serves organic house coffee, chai lattes and berry patch smoothies. Hummus, Greek salad, spinach lentil soup and grilled lavash wraps round out the menu, and sweet treats include coffee cake. There’s also a Mitchell’s ice cream counter.
The cozy room in the back of the casual cafe makes a pleasing space for reading or tapping away on your laptop. If it’s a sunny day, head to the patio and enjoy the garden setting. Heartfelt: 436 Cortland Ave., S. F. ( 415) 548- 1380. www.heartfeltsf.com. Progressive Grounds: 400 Cortland Ave., S. F. ( 415) 2826233.