Mavericks:
Drama — from whether the swell will arrive to why women aren’t competing — is never far from the big- wave surfing contest set for Friday morning.
The important thing to know about Mavericks is that it was a complete mystery for most of the 20th century.
Huge waves broke off Pillar Point, just up the road from Half Moon Bay, but they weren’t visible from the highway and they broke nearly a half- mile out to sea. Even for those venturing onto the nearby bluffs to take a look, paddling out through shark- inhabited waters on a surfboard seemed entirely out of the question, and the place wasn’t popularized as an actual surf spot until the early 1990s.
Everything about the place suggests stress, hard work and life- threatening adventure, and that goes a long way toward explaining the twosided nature of the Titans of Mavericks contest, scheduled for an 8 a. m. start Friday. It might be the greatest show in surfing, and it’s definitely the most controversial.
There was a bit of panic in the air Wednesday when the Eddie Aikau contest, a big- wave contest scheduled for Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu in Hawaii, was called off. A powerful northwest swell — one
that would make its way toward Northern California — was nowhere near the expected size.
Late in the day, Hawaii came alive with a vengeance: wave faces up to 45 feet throughout the islands’ big- wave venues. “I’m breathing a sigh of relief,” said Bay Area meteorologist Mark Sponsler. “It won’t be a giant day here, but we’ll probably get 36- to 38foot faces on the bigger sets, and that’s real Mavericks.”
What a contrast: Waimea Bay amounts to a full- blown amphitheater, and the beach was packed at daybreak with soon- to- be- disappointed fans who had slept on the sand. Mavericks is, in essence, an Internet show. ( You can find the webcast at www. redbull. tv.) Not only are there limited views from the bluffs and narrow beach, but also those areas will be closed to the public Friday due to liability issues related to erosion and high- tide injury risk.
This figures to be more compelling viewing than “Fishin’ With Ed.” Aside from the cold water, the sharks and an imposing rock formation confronting fallen surfers, the force of a Mavericks wave presents the real danger. Kelly Slater, unquestionably the best all- around surfer in the world, was held down for more than 30 seconds on his first trip there, and it was only a medium- sized day. Hawaii’s Mark Foo and Sion Milosky, two of the best big- wave surfers of modern times, died at Mavericks ( 1994 and 2011, respectively) from the sheer volume of punishing water.
Behind the scenes, Mavericks has always been plagued by political infighting. Under a previous regime, surfers were promised stipends but were never paid. Permit issues have divided the local community. Disillusioned sponsors bailed out. And the new organizing body, Cartel Management, seems to have alienated most everyone but the 24 invited surfers. ( Today’s surfers are treated with proper reverence, and the overall prize money is roughly $ 120,000, a handsome figure in this sport.)
Two past winners of the contest, Peter Mel and Grant “Twiggy” Baker, were banned this year because of their allegiance to the Big Wave World Tour, a deeply resented rival. Cartel has seized control of the still and video images, shutting out several top- flight locals who have photographed the place for years. Unless they’re out on their own boat ( that’s nearly eight hours on high seas), visiting media will be watching the webcast indoors.
There has been considerable discussion about women in the event, and that’s a glimpse into the future. Women are making tremendous strides at Mavericks and around the world. For now, they realize they don’t have one of the top 24 Mavericks surfers. They’re not even that crazy about having their own heat. They’re working toward a permit allowing them to hold a separate contest at Mavericks, putting full emphasis on the women’s cause, and eventually a women’s big- wave tour.
Friday will not offer all- time- best Mavericks, but that’s not really the point. At long last, the contest is happening. It’s Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, Greg Long and other iconic big- wave riders putting their lives on the line, all day long. Sporting theater doesn’t get much better.