MANKA’S INVERNESS LODGE
The setting: On the southwest shore of Tomales Bay, Inverness claims a spot on the bucket list of most savvy travelers, thanks to Manka’s Inverness Lodge, a retreat where rustic luxury comes alive in unique rooms, cabins and cottages tucked into the hillside and nestled along the waterfront. The accommodations blend seamlessly into the landscape, and the interiors showcase owner Margaret Grade’s uncanny ability to make rustic feel oh-so-chic. To enter one of the cozy cabins, accessorized with hunting and fishing accoutrement — a nod to the area’s roots — is to feel as though you’ve stumbled upon a secret bungalow that’s been perfectly preserved for a century.
The backstory: In the early 1900s, Inverness was considered a resort of sorts for city dwellers from San Francisco and Oakland. In the 1950s, Manka and Milan Prokupek bought the Inverness Lodge (established in 1917), renaming it Manka’s Inverness Lodge. They turned the property into an inn, adding cabins and rooms. Together with their son, the Prokupeks ran Manka’s for 40 years before selling it to Margaret Grade, who fell for the property’s unique setting and ambiance. Over the years, she and her partner, chef Daniel DeLong, have given Manka’s all the necessary improvements to transform it into a world-class destination — without stripping away its character.
The appeal: A stay here is a soulful experience — think outdoor showers, deep tubs, roaring fires, starry skies and plush chairs designed for curling up with a book beneath a Pendleton blanket. Manka’s has a loyal clientele, from artists and writers to celebrities, all of whom crave the quiet this slice of West Marin affords. Though the original (and beloved) hunting lodge and restaurant burned down in 2006, Grade and DeLong opened Sir and Star at the Olema, a short drive from Manka’s. Diners who for years mourned the end of Manka’s celebrated restaurant now flock here.
The extras: Every morning around 9 a.m. a gentle knock at the door lets guests know that breakfast has arrived. A shallow wooden tray cradles jars of apple cider, freshly cut fruit and homemade granola with yogurt. Rooms come with plenty of dark roast coffee and tea for
holing up inside your bungalow or room. And the bathrooms feature Kiehl’s products.
Good to know: You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the vintage Airstream that serves as check-in for Manka’s. The property has an annex, with four less expensive side-by-side rooms, and several historic cottages and cabins tucked around it in the woods. The hillside accommodations feel very much like log cabins, cozy and dimly lit and layered with tartan and plaids. The luxurious Boathouse, down the road, boasts breathtaking views of Tomales Bay, lots of natural light and bright white shiplap walls. Above the Boathouse is another (smaller) waterfront accommodation, the Boatman’s Quarters. Though Manka’s has an off-the-grid feel: there’s Wi-Fi and plenty of music stored on iPods with a topnotch speaker system.
Details: 30 Callendar Way, Inverness, CA, 94937. Rates start at $245 a night. (415) 669-1034. www.mankas. com.