Spiced summer kebabs
I accidentally discovered the potential of the flavor stored inside juniper berries several years ago, only after I arrived in the Bay Area. While experimenting with different flavors for simple syrups, I was taken aback by the distinct flavor of this berry. What surprised me is that it’s not one single flavor profile but rather a combination of flavors, all packed inside a tiny berry. Because of this treasure chest of nuance, I find that juniper berries make a great addition to savory dishes, especially meats such as lamb. ( Juniper is found easily in most stores in the spice aisle, but I usually get mine from Oaktown Spice Shop in Oakland.)
Summer is a great time for kebabs. For my version, the base of the marinade uses spices and aromatics that are traditionally used to flavor meat in Indian cooking, like coriander, cumin and ginger. However, the addition of juniper berries brings out the heat of the peppers, while adding a gentle “piney” note to the marinade. The final result is a tender piece of grilled meat that’s juicy and packed with a complex mixture of flavors.
A couple of tips when cooking these kebabs: I strongly recommend trimming off as much fat as you can from the lamb shoulder, or ask your butcher to do it for you. This makes it easier to cook — and eat. You will also notice that I grind the spices just to crack them a little before they go into the blender; this helps to release their flavors and they tend to combine much better when added to the blender, especially if you’re not using a high-power blender.
And the biggest recommendation: Serve it with chilled cucumber raita on the side.