Chefs craft farm-to-fork seasonal specialties
Golden Bear Ranches in Lodi grows organic produce for some 40 area restaurants, including Lodi’s own Towne House Restaurant at Wine & Roses hotel and the French Laundry in Yountville. So that guests can admire the premium fruit and vegetables in the very dirt in which they are cultivated, GBR farmer John Gibson also opens his property for periodic public Farm-toFork tours.
The Lodi District Chamber of Commerce celebrated Lodi grape and organic blueberry farmers Joe and Sherry Cotta as “Agribusiness Persons of the Year” at a ceremony this January. Another Lodi property, J&M Farms grows cherries and grapes, with owner and third generation fruit farmer Joe Cataldo exporting cherries as far away as Asia.
Then there’s O’Hara Farms, operating its family run Lodi property since 1955, with free-range eggs, humanely-raised pork and a cornucopia of peppers, corn, eggplant, heirloom tomatoes, rainbow chard, cauliflower, kohlrabi, bok choy and much more.
In short, this San Joaquin County region puts a lot of effort into the agricultural business.
And that is good news for Lodi diners, who can stock their own pantries with seasonal specialties straight-from-the-source, or even better, enjoy the delights prepared by top chefs at local restaurants.
Whet your appetite with these highlight destinations.
FENIX
Downtown Lodi’s newest restaurant celebrates fire, with a torched wood bar and tabletops. A mosaic of charred wood squares frames the kitchen passthrough, capped by a sign reading “Warning — the Cook is on Fire.” Even an ocean mural salutes flame, painted like ancient Japanese art-meets-comic strip with a sci-fi scuba lady surrounded by squid and sharks while she holds a ball of fire.
The meaning is personal for chef-owner Richard Hyman, who suffered severe burns two years ago after a propane oven explosion at another restaurant engulfed him in flames. Like the mythical phoenix, this contemporary American eatery rose from the ashes of his dreams to someday own his own restaurant.
Now, whole, shelled local walnuts decorate a white gazpacho looking like a pretty puddle of cream silk dotted with microgreens and a fan of pink wild gulf shrimp. PEI mussels bathe in chipotle broth with hominy, crispy shallot and grilled baguette, while Thai spiced stuffed quail rests atop black rice in a pond of shiitake dashi dotted with pork, ginger and lemongrass.
Every dish boasts a special accent, such as the tangy St. Agur triple cream bleu cheese that decorates the prime filet mignon alongside potato puree, crispy onion and red wine glace.
Yes, flames touch the food, too. Savory brassicas are served charred, dressed with chickpea mousse, green garlic, black quinoa and lemon oil. Lodi’s best vegetables are roasted for a summer harvest plate, meanwhile, in a colorful, just-picked mix that might include mushrooms, zucchini, petite corn on the cob, cippollini onion, finished with olive oil, fresh flower blossoms, foam and sautéed farro.
PIETRO’S TRATTORIA
The food hasn’t changed in decades at this