PENINSULA BEIJING
Normally “downsized” doesn’t correlate with “palatial,” but in the case of the Peninsula Beijing, reducing its 525 rooms by nearly half has helped create the largest standard hotel lodgings in the Chinese capital. The recent $123 million renovation has also transformed public areas in the former Palace Hotel, which opened in 1989 and joined the Peninsula brand in 2006. The redesigned hotel showcases the Middle Kingdom’s cultural riches, from Imperial-inspired architecture to bold works by contemporary artists.
The setting: Goldfish (Wangfujing) Lane was renowned during the Qing dynasty (China’s last) for the Na family’s sizable mansion and Imperialstyle garden. Guests who venture out from the Peninsula Beijing can seek treasures close by at Pan Jia Yuan antiques market, or watch potential dynasties forming at the Temple of Heaven, where parents of unmarried children meet on weekends to swap details on prospective daughters- and sons-in-law.
The appeal: Capitalist decadence where you might least expect it. The 230 rooms, starting at 645 square feet, offer separate living rooms and bedrooms, with elements reflecting both East and West. The grand lobby features a new three-story staircase and six white marble pillars with hand-carved flowers in hexagonal patterns, one of several homages to the Forbidden City. The hotel’s restaurants offer modern Mediterranean, traditional Cantonese and “international/Asian” menus.
Insider tip: The rooftop bar on the 15th floor — the only one in this area — provides impressive views of the mountains to the west. Try chef Alberto Becerril’s tomato tartare in Jing restaurant or, if your palate permits, head to Quinjie Street, devoted to spicy hot pots.
Good to know: Some antiques at Pan Jia Yuan might be fake — the hotel recommends taking a local guide. September and May-June have the best weather (warm but not too warm), but visitors willing to dress warmly can have the city to themselves during Chinese New Year in February, when locals go away for the holiday.
Details: 8 Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing, Beijing. (86) 10 8516 2888, https://beijing.pen insula.com. Rooms from $300.