Sonoma’s top 3 road trips.
OUR TOP 3 ROAD TRIPS
Enjoy a leisurely weekend, an overnight escape or a Sunday drive along Sonoma County’s most scenic highways.
Highway 1 runs along the Sonoma County coast for 56 miles, from Bodega Bay in the south to the Gualala River in the north. That’s not a long distance, but these are some of the most expansive miles in the world. Every twist of the road brings amazements: a surf-lashed, rocky cove; a hidden beach; steep hills lush with wind-sculpted pines; and the Pacific Ocean, flowing from slate gray to celadon green to tourmaline with each shift of sunlight and cloud.
It’s a beautiful coast, says Hilla Ahvenainen. “You look outside at the ocean and go, ‘God, this is incredible.’ ” With her partner, Margaret Smith, Ahvenainen has operated the popular Two-fish Baking Co. in Sea Ranch for a dozen years. Now they’ve transformed the Stewarts Point Store, established in 1868, into an inviting roadside spot. That’s part of Sonoma County’s Highway 1 story, too. There are choice places to eat and sleep, some of them, like the store, venerable classics made new. All in just 56 miles.
Here are 10 essential Sonoma County Highway 1 stops:
— Peter Fish
1. Bodega Bay.
For generations, this hamlet was a prime commercial fishing port, and it retains its porttown charm — hardworking, unpretentious, with cottages and crab shacks scattered along the shores of the calm bay. Start your day at Roadhouse Coffee, where you can get a latte and listen to local gossip. Around the corner, the Ren Brown Gallery Collection is an example of the coast’s thriving art scene — the contemporary Japanese prints and ceramics on display are stunning. Then enjoy some natural artistry by following Westshore Road to its end at Bodega Head: the 1.9-mile trail around the promontory supplies great views, including, from November through January, a chance to spot migrating gray whales. For a post-hike lunch, nearby Spud Point Crab Co. has clam chowder that is among the most delicious you will have in your life. Or honor Bodega Bay’s role in cinematic history by hitting the Birds Cafe, named for the 1963 Hitchcock masterpiece that was filmed in town; you’ll find photos from the movie set, plus good chowder. Finally, if you’re staying for dinner, make a reservation at Terrapin Creek Cafe; dishes like Pan-Roasted Corvina Sea Bass have earned it a deserved Michelin star.
Roadhouse Coffee, 1580 Eastshore Road.; (707) 360-8856. Ren Brown Gallery Collection, 1781 Highway 1; (707) 875-2922; www.renbrown.com. Spud Point Crab Co.; 1860 Westshore Road; (707) 875-9472; www.spudpointcrab.com. The Birds Cafe, 1407 Highway 1, Bodega Bay; (707) 875-2900. Terrapin Creek Cafe, 1580 Eastshore Road; (707) 875-2700; www.terrapincreekcafe.com
2. Sonoma Coast State Park.
This long, skinny state park hugs the coast for 17 miles between Bodega Bay and Jenner. A dozen access points lead to coves, beaches and bluff-top trails. Favorites include Shell Beach, famous for its tide pools, and Salmon Creek Beach, with a 2-mile-long stretch of sand, great for strolling. Highway 1; (707) 875-3483; www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=451
3. Jenner.
This 140-person hamlet has a beautiful setting where the Russian River meets the sea. Get your bearings (and maps and books) at the helpful Sonoma Coast Visitor Center. You can get out on the water by renting a kayak or joining a guided tour from Water-Treks. For sustenance, rustic Cafe Aquatica offers coffee, baked goods and sandwiches. If you’re looking for fancy, River’s End has fine views, a menu that includes oysters and filet mignon, and an impressive wine list. Sonoma Coast Visitor Center; 10439 Highway 1, (707) 865-9657. Water-Treks, 10438 Highway One; (707) 865-2249; www.watertreks.com. Cafe Aquatica, 10439 Highway 1; (707) 865-2251. River’s End,
11048 Highway 1; (707) 865-2484; www. ilovesunsets.com
4. Fort Ross Vineyards.
Perched on a hilltop above the coast, Fort Ross may be the most spectacularly sited tasting room in California. The wines from the surrounding vineyards — part of the newly designated Fort Ross-Seaview AVA — are good, too, including some lovely Pinot Noirs and a Pinotage, a varietal brought in from the owner’s native South Africa. 15725 Meyers Grade Road, Jenner; (707) 847-3460; www.fortrossvineyard.com
5. Fort Ross State Historic Park.
With a more, um, assertive Russia much in the news, it’s an appropriate time to explore this intriguing outpost of Slavic enterprise. The Russian American Co. established the fort in 1812 as a base for its California fur trading operations; the era is brought back to life with handsomely restored (or reproduced) stockade, barracks, Russian Orthodox chapel and manager’s home. 19005 Highway 1, Jenner; (707) 847-3286; www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=449
6. Timber Cove resort.
After an eight-month, multimillion-dollar renovation — the last finishing touches to be completed by the end of November — the 46-room Timber Cove has regained all the A-frame, cliffside elegance it possessed when it opened in 1963. The vibe is 1960s swank: Sip a cocktail beside the lobby’s lava rock fireplace, and you can almost convince yourself you’re Steve McQueen or Ali MacGraw, wrapped in an Icelandic sweater and waiting for someone to give you a smoldering glance. Rooms maintain the theme with Marimekko-style prints and portable Crosley record players on which you can spin LPs from the resort’s record library. The Coast Kitchen restaurant scores with waffles for breakfast, oysters for lunch, braised short ribs for dinner, and great views all day long. From $240. 21780 Highway 1, Jenner; (707) 8473231; www.timbercoveresort.com
7. Salt Point State Park.
With 6,000 acres stretching from the shore up into the coastal hills, Salt Point gives you lots of places to roam. To attain an amazing view with almost no effort, head to Fitz Mill Cove. At the north end of the north parking lot, follow an unmarked trail that runs about 100 yards north to a sign for the trail up Sentinel Rock. Take that short trail to the top of the rock, where a wooden platform gives you 270-degree views of coastline and ocean. 25050 Highway 1, Jenner; 707847-3221; www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=453
8. Stewarts Point Store.
In 1868, a general store opened for business on picturesque Stewarts Point. Fastforward to 2016: Margaret Smith and Hilla Ahvenainen have turned the store into a charming coastside stop for calzone, sandwiches and food to go, plus an assortment of old-fashioned sodas ( Faygo Original Red Pop) and candy ( Boston Baked Beans). The pair also run Two-fish Baking Co. in Sea Ranch, with excellent scones, breads and coffees. Stewarts Point Store, 32000 Highway 1, Stewarts Point; (707) 785-2406. Two-fish Baking Co., 35590 Verdant View, Sea Ranch; (707) 785-2443; www.twofishbaking.com
9. Sea Ranch.
Opened in 1963, this 3,500-acre community was planned as a Northern California nirvana, with strikingly designed homes sited to preserve open space and ocean views. Fifty-plus years later, the ranch still looks good — and there are a number of ways visitors can enjoy it. You can savor a meal or book a room at Sea Ranch Lodge. Many homes are available to rent, via VRBO, Airbnb and other agencies. If you’re interested in the community’s history and architecture, download the audio walking tour from the Sea Ranch Association’s website and follow it on the trail that leads from the lodge. Sea Ranch Lodge, 60 Sea Walk Drive, Sea Ranch; (707) 785-2371; www.searanchlodge.com; from $224. Sea Ranch Association: www.tsra.org
10. Gualala Point Regional Park.
At the north end of the county, the park has gorgeous views of Gualala River and the Pacific, plus good whale watching opportunities from (where else?) Whale Watch Point. 42401 Highway 1, Gualala; (707) 7852377; http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/Get_Outdoors/Parks/Gualala_Point_Regional_Park.aspx