THE SCENIC SHORTCUT TO RELAXATION
Named for the Bohemian Grove, the rustic resort for the exclusive men’s club, the curvy two-lane Bohemian Highway connects the hamlets of Freestone, Occidental and Monte Rio. The scenic route dips and rises through shady stands of redwoods, past vineyards and farms in this secluded slice of Sonoma County.
“You can bike, hike or just drive,” says Thea Doty, a longtime west Sonoma resident whose boutique, Enduring Comforts, is at the intersection of the Bodega and Bohemian highways in Freestone. “It’s a beautiful nugget of a place that people from all over the world come to visit.”
The road is just 10 miles from start to finish, but there are plenty of attractions — bohemian and otherwise — for a full day of fun. Begin your adventure in Freestone, just about an hour from San Francisco.
— Deb Wandell
1. Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary:
For more than 30 years, guests have flocked to Michael Stusser’s spa for its signature treatment — the energizing cedar enzyme bath. It starts with enzyme tea in your own private Japanese tea garden, followed by 20 minutes of immersion in a tub filled with fermenting wood fibers. It’s surprisingly warm, fluffy and fragrant. The bath is followed by a sonic nap to music designed to balance the left and right sides of your brain. After your treatment, walk around the Zen garden or reserve a spot in the Field of Hammocks. $99, $89 couples. 209 Bohemian Hwy., Freestone, (707) 823-8231. www.osmosis.com.
2. Wild Flour Bread:
The line forms early at Jed Wallach’s bakery, a popular stop for cyclists, bikers and motorists at the intersection of the Bodega and Bohemian highways. Loaves are baked in a wood oven heated to about 550 degrees to ensure a thick crust. Each day, the display table behind the counter is piled high with about a dozen varieties of bread and four to five kinds of scones from a rotating list that includes Meyer lemon, cherry and white chocolate; maple, blueberry and cornmeal; and vegan peach and ginger. Not sure which to pick? Samples are available. Grab a scone or sticky bun and a cup of coffee, and explore the garden and orchard next door. 8 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Friday through Monday. 140 Bohemian Hwy., Freestone, (707) 874-2938. www.wildflourbread.com
3. Freestone Artisan Cheese:
A short walk away and tucked back from the road, a 19th century farmhouse is a cheese lover’s dream, selling buffalo, cow, goat and sheep’s milk cheeses from small producers in West Sonoma and Marin. The offerings change based on the season. Pair your selections with bread from Wild Flour and enjoy your spread at the picnic tables nearby or take it to your next stop. Noon-5 p.m. Thursdays, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Fridays-Mondays. 80 Bohemian Hwy., Freestone, (707) 8741030. www.freestoneartisan.com
4. Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards:
Picnickers are welcome at the Sonoma branch of this Napa Valley producer is known for Insignia, its time-honored Cabernet blend. In the Freestone-Occidental area, the focus is on cooler climate wines. Opt for the Sonoma Coast tasting that features two current release Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. No appointment necessary. November-April: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Thursday-Monday. May-October: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Tasting fees from $20. 12747 El Camino Bodega, Freestone, (707) 874-1010. www.josephphelps.com
5. Enduring Comforts:
Poke into this shop in a midcentury gas station. Owners Thea and Steve Doty opened the store 16 years ago, specializing in antiques, then hats and now a mix of antiques, collectibles, stylish activewear and jewelry made by her son, Ian.
6. Western Hills Garden detour:
In the 1960s, gay bohemians Lester Hawkins and Marshall Olbrich created a 3-acre nursery filled with low-water Australian, South African and native plants. At the time, Western Hills was more than a garden, it was a scene, with the owners hosting plant experts from all corners of the world. After Hawkins and Olbrich died, devotees struggled to keep the garden going, but it lapsed into forclosure. In 2012, new owners Chris and Tim Szybalski purchased and rehabilitated the property just up the hill from downtown Occidental. It’s now considered a landmark garden with rare specimen plants. Tours Tuesdays and Thursdays. $10. 16250 Coleman Valley Road, Occidental, (707) 872-5463. www.westernhillsgarden.com
7. Sonoma Canopy Tours:
Ziplining from tree to tree 200 feet above the forest floor gives you a whole new perspective on the redwoods. After a short, and entertaining, safety lesson from your guides, you’ll spend the next 2½ hours traveling through the trees, along seven lines, up a staircase that spirals around a huge trunk and over two suspension bridges. Cameras in the trees capture your best (and your worst) moments. It ends with a knee-knocking rappel off a threestory-high platform and high-fives all around. Tours daily. $99-$109 adults, $89-$99 seniors, $69-$79. 6250 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental, (888) 494-7868.
8. Occidental:
Stroll through this pretty little 19th century logging and railroad town. Drop into shops such as Boho Bungalow, a lifestyle boutique, or Hand Goods, where you’ll find locally made ceramics, jewelry and accessories. Stop at Boheme Winery’s sunny tasting room for a complimentary flight of owner-vintner Kurt Beitler’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Boho Bungalow, 3692 Bohemian Hwy. 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. (707) 874-6030. www. thebohobungalow.com. Hand Goods, 3627 Main St., (707) 874-2161. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Cellar Door Tasting Room, 3625 Main St. 3-5 p.m. Thursday and Friday, noon-6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. (707) 874-3218.
9. Hazel restaurant:
Wrap up your day at this restaurant owned by Bay Area transplants Michele and Jim Wim-borough, who worked at Zut, Grand Cafe and Boulevard. Two wood-fired ovens turn out pizzas and house-made sourdough bread, and the Mediterranean-inspired menu features dishes such as whole roasted branzino with new potatoes, kale and Sungold cherry tomatoes ($29) and a grilled pork chop with roasted Devoto Gardens ambrosia apples and Walla Walla onions ($28). Produce is procured from Feed, a Sebastopol organization that provides ingredients picked to order from local farms. The wine list favors West County. Save room for Michele’s desserts, which on a recent visit included spiced olive oil cake with wood-oven roasted pears and whipped creme fraiche. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Brunch Sunday. 3782 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental (707) 874-6003. www.restauranthazel.com Deb Wandell is The San Francisco Chronicle’s senior travel editor. Email: dwandell@sfchronicle.com